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Short list of unresolved reported bugs A list of recent bugs(starting from 2016) still confirmed in 3.40 stable
rare bugs that lack info to reproduce are not include in this list
link:http://z3.invisionfree.com/UrW_forum/index.php?showtopic=xxxx

Double log with companion
7506
[EDIT by Sami: Fixed - persists in 3.52[/EDIT]

Bad kota building system
7692

Filling hole of trap pit
7685

Force swimming in shallow water and stuck after 100% fatigue

7679
[EDIT by Sami: Fixed - persists in 3.52[/EDIT]
related, wade on land due to swim in shore
8200
[EDIT by Sami: Fixed - persists in 3.52[/EDIT]

Inside of building don't display correctly on rocky terrain during snowing
7430

birds flying in house
7789

quick burn of tree/wall with small fire
7740

resuming doesn't keep hiding
7987

Transport stuck in middle of thin ice in early winter
7991
related,pick transport on thin ice
8219
related,zoom out at thin ford and stuck in river
8243,8510

Threshing weight
8289

Naming of unidentified flour
8220,8522

Often reported 'issues'
   snake in winter
[EDIT by Sami: Fixed - persists in 3.52[/EDIT]
   inaccessible cave
   shutter alignment
   emptying container in attempt to take item out

May 22, 2017, 12:26:10 PM
1
Re: Hey Sami, everyone- UnReal World got noticed by Guru Larry!
Quote
Time to call Guinness and challenge for their next publication.

Actually, I think the Guinness World Record team got it correct, and it is Larry who, after all, is a bit confused with facts  :)

Following Larry's logic, UnReal World development time was about 18 monts - Sami started developing some time at 1990, and the first playable version was released around may 1992. The first version was released as share-ware, and according to the standards of those times, it counts as 'a public release'.

Since 1992 UnReal World has been receiving a continuous stream of updates - which is different from the 'development hell' Larry describes with those other games. Also, thas is why UnReal World can't hold a Guinnes World Record for longest development time.

Instead, UnReal World has the official Guinnes World Record for longest update support.

So, no need to call Guinness to challenge their nominations.

May 22, 2017, 11:10:52 PM
1
Modding Tutorial and Help this is a compilation I created of the games mod tutorial, others modding help, and my own edits. this is how I learned how to mod unreal world and make some custom content and hope it can help someone else. figured I should post it and also set up a section in the new forums for modding help and discussion, I wont be giving help (because I am less experienced than most) but I can try, and I'm sure many others will help if you post your wip mods or problems you run into.
June 18, 2017, 05:47:04 AM
1
Animal Husbandry I have some comments about animal husbandry.  I'm excited to see that in the developer list.  I've amassed quite a collection of animals with my latest character (8 cows, 12 bulls, 6 big dogs, 3 small dogs, 12 regular dogs, variable reindeer - they become food) and I have kept pigs, sheep, etc. in previous characters.  I have some comments for your consideration:

Animal Products
I love the development plans to have more useable materials come from animals. 
  • Hides/Leather
    Obtaining leather from cows/bulls/pigs is great.  The hides for others are also good.  There doesn't seem to be anything special though about livestock hides/skins/leather/furs.  Maybe domesticated animals might have the potential for higher quality hides?
  • Milk
    What good is milk other than to drink?  I'd love to see milk as an option, rather than just water, in current cooking recipes (porridge, stews, etc.).  Also, I'd love new recipes based on milk: butter, cheese.  I can imagine butter and cheese being high value trade items as well as optional ingredients in other recipes.  Also, milk doesn't seem to spoil or go bad.  I've carried around bags of milk for days (during the summer) and keep drinking from them with no problem.
  • Wool
    I look forward to harvesting wool and processing it for making things.  Building gear for spinning wool and eventually a loom would be a great set of higher-tier craftable items.  I also imagine that would really prompt the need to advancing the carpentry skill to build an improved loom grade to allow higher quality wool fabric/clothes.
  • Horns, Antlers, Bones
    I'd love to be able to make my own hunting horn from a bull or ram.  Also using these materials in weapons and other craftable items would be great.
  • Left-overs from Butchering
    In reality, there is a lot of mess left over after a carcass is butchered.  I encourage you to consider adding a blood spot icon where an animal is butchered.  This might discourage a player from butchering animals on their sleeping bunk.  Also, maybe there is a residual carcass mass left over that must be disposed of.  This could create a trash pile that attracts scavengers, crows, bears, etc. unless it it burned.
Comments on Animals
I also have some comments on animals and interaction with specific animals.
  • Neglecting Dogs
    Dogs are a huge help/advantage for hunting large game, and a player can treat them very poorly for their huge help.  I recommend some tweaks to augment their obvious advantages so that the player needs to balance the cost/benefit of keeping a pack of dogs (I currently have 20+ dogs and have stopped collecting them because of the annoyance of naming them all).  A smaller number of dogs could be more manageable for use in hunting.
    For example, I've kept a pack of dogs in a pen for weeks while I go roaming and they always sit in their pen until I wander back.  It could be that dogs leave their pen (dig out, jump over) if they stay starving for too long.  It could be that those escaped dogs then become a feral pack near my cabin.  Another option is to have starving dogs become aggressive until they are fed.  They would attack other dogs, domesticated animals, other animals, humans (including the player) until they are fed (no longer starving).  Also, I've kept dogs in a pen with other domesticated animals (reindeer, cows, etc.) until the dog is starving for days.  Yet, the dog doesn't kill and eat the other domesticated animal. 
  • Rams
    What about ram sizes?  I'd love to search for a big ram in order to harvest his horns for crafting. 
  • Pigs
    Are there male pigs (boars)?  I assumed pigs were female, but I guess they are genderless in the game. 
  • Bulls
    It seems that bulls have different carrying capacities, even beyond the size.  For example, I have normal sized bulls that can carry different amounts of slender tree trunks.  Is there a way to note or differentiate that carrying difference beyond naming the animal?
  • Killing Domesticated Animals
    I can have several animals leashed and can slaughter them in the middle of a pen of animals, and none of the other animals will bat an eye.  I'd recommend that animals become aggressive if they see another domesticated animal be slaughtered. 
    Also, I've totally changed how I kill my domesticated animals after a reindeer went aggressive after my first blow failed to kill it.  It kicked me in the eye, I passed out, and my eye started bleeding.  I woke up to an angry wounded reindeer.  I killed the beast and smoked the heck out of its meat.  I went blind in that eye until it healed weeks later. 
  • Capturing and Domesticating Wild Animals
    This would require traps for some animals that keep them alive and unhurt.  Some domesticatable animals could include capercaillie, ducks, etc..  The birds would require some form of cage or pen to prevent them from leaving.  Maybe the player can clip their wings and keep them in a pen?  Can a player leash a bird?  Maybe feeding birds grain could help domesticate them. 
    Carnivores, even small ones, and larger animals (e.g. reindeer) probably shouldn't be domesticatable. They would require constant attention and feeding to prevent them from becoming feral.
  • Animal Pens and Overcrowing/Animal Compatibility
    Currently, animals can stack on spaces within a pen without penalty.  For example, I can pack 12+ animals in a pen with a 3x3 open space.  I've seen this also happen rarely in towns.  This also allows multiple animals to be tied to trees than there are spaces around the tree.  Maybe make animals so they don't stack?  Would this affect the number of animals that are leashed at one time around the player? 
    Also, there seems to be no issues with animal compatibility.  I can put sheep, pigs, dogs, cows, and reindeer all in the same pen without any penalty.  Maybe some animals are incompatible when in the same pen (or adjacent pens) to others?  That would require the player to better manage the layout of a farm with multiple animal pens.
General Comments about Animal Husbandry
If you are considering a new "Animal Husbandry" skill, there are several activities that can be associated with it.  It could be used for:
  • gathering of useable animal parts separate from hide working (wool, milk, horns, etc.)
  • breeding, if that is going to be incorporated
  • domesticating wild animals - high skill levels needed?
  • butchering
  • creating pens, cages for animals, etc. that goes beyond trapping skill.  This could also be used to create a pen that is separate from just building fences.
  • Using domesticated animals for labor/hauling - loading animals; hitching them to sleds, wagons, carts; building pack saddles or other carrying slings
  • managing several leashed animals at once (currently, unlimited leashed animals at once - maybe limit that number?)

Love the game!

July 06, 2017, 07:03:18 PM
1
Couple of weight issues Another "let's collect similar issues in one thread 'cause Sil ain't no board-spammer" thread, this time regarding weight issues.

Weight rounding on shown weight:
Displayed weight rounding* is a bit iffy and always rounds up, sometimes to the point of utter ridiculousness.

Example:
A pinch of heather flowers is, by my calculation, 0.025 lbs either exactly or so close to it that the difference is less than 0.0001--in other words, utterly negligible. (Did some testing with various amounts of heather pinches and the knowledge that even a minuscule amount over the full lbs causes the displayed weight to be rounded up to the next number.)

40 pinches of heather thus are exactly 1 lbs and the stack has a shown weight of 1lbs.

41 pinches of heather flowers, a weight of 1.025 lbs, is rounded to a displayed weight of 2 lbs.

*The game knows perfectly well the actual exact weight of an item or stack, as shown by various crafting and cooking options requiring set weights of items. The issue is, as far as I can tell, solely in the rounding displayed, not the actual behind-the-scenes weight calculation.

Small animal carcasses occasionally weigh less whole than in parts:
There's various factors in play that decide the exact weight of any particular animal, as well as the weight of however much you get off an animal. It does occasionally happen with small animals that the total parts gotten from a carcass (being fur+meat cuts+fat+feathers if any) weigh more together than the carcass did to start with. This is mostly a well-hidden thing due to the rounding issue described above.

Example:
Grisly willow carcass of "2"lbs//1.3lbs*

Rendered to:

No skin (mutilated beyond usage)
No feathers (due to no skinning possible)
2x  willow grouse cut
1x willow grouse fat
for a total weight of a fragment above 2 lbs. (In genuine, not fake-rounded, weight)

*Rounding issue. Going by "Carrying" field in upper right, 1.3 lbs. Rounding there too, but playing with heather flowers showed it has to be within 0.025 lbs of that amount, so let's go with a full 1.3 lbs.

Have witnessed the issue on above-mentioned 1.3 lbs willow grouse giving just over 2 lbs in parts and a small 0.6 lbs squirrel rendering to a little over 1.3 lbs in parts (which made me first look into this, as meat cuts are always 1 lbs exactly and I noticed the carcass weighed less than that), but suspect most of the smaller animals to occasionally have this issue.

Weight of skinned carcasses same as weight of "whole" carcasses:
Skinned carcasses don't have the weight of the skin removed from the carcass' total weight. If, as I suspect, the carcass' entire weight is used to calculate the number of cuts, skinned carcasses may systematically give slightly more cuts than they actually should.

Furthermore, it means that if someone for whatever reason opts to haul around both a skin and the skinned carcass it belonged to (as opposed to either skinning-and-butchering it in one go or moving it to wherever they aim to go before skinning and butchering--which are both probably significantly more common actions than skin-and-carry-the-carcass, but there *are* nonetheless various circumstances in which opting to skin-and-carry is a perfectly valid choice), they're hauling along more weight than ought to be the case. In some cases, it can well mean the difference between being over-encumbered or not.

Example:
Small stag carcass of "456"lbs (too heavy to carry, so it hardly mattered in this case, but the principle remains. As I can't carry, I can't determine the exact weight beyond "somewhere between 455-456.0 lbs")

Rendered to

Fine stag skin of "24"lbs//23.3lbs
Small stag carcass (skinned) of "456"lbs//455-456 lbs

Appears to occur with all non-fish animals.

September 28, 2017, 12:09:30 AM
1
Re: Few questions about trapping and a couple of misc questions Having a high tracking skill definitely helps a lot in seeing enough tracks to actually follow that fleeing animal, even through woodlands. If dealing with an animal that's been hanging around the same area for a while, do occasionally double-check if you're still following the recent, not several days old, tracks.

And be persistent. It can easily take traipsing after that stag for half a dozen overworld tiles before it gets even slightly fatigued. Make tactic use of hiding/not hiding. Don't be afraid to spook an animal to get it to flee and thus tire itself much faster, but at the same time, try not to needlessly spook it in areas where you're likely to loose track of its tracks either due to terrain visibility, track visibility on said terrain or due to presence of many, many other/older tracks.

And don't spook it if you know it'll cost you an opportunity to corral it against a shoreline, fence, closed treeline or the likes.

If you lose the tracks, head back to the last known track and double-check it didn't turn while you headed in a straight line. Look for tracks manually if none are visible. If you really can't find the next tracks, look a bit further out from the last track. Keep in mind whether it's likely to change direction slightly or a lot. Try to consider where it might have gone. Which brings me to my next point:

Almost as important, though, is getting used to various animals and their behaviour pattern. Know what animals can and can't get over fences. What animals are willing to go into the water to escape and which will be corralled nicely against the shoreline. What animals may be chased onto weak ice and drown themselves or at least tire themselves out a lot that way. Whether an animal is likely to head in the same direction for a long while or turn frequently, and whether they're more likely to change direction after hitting an obstacle or just try to get around it and then head for the same direction they were originally going in. Whether they're likely to keep trying to flee even if you've got them cornered, or if they may try to actually defend themselves. If they're group animals, whether they will try to mostly flee in the same direction and then regroup asap, or scatter in all directions and then regroup, have some scatter as others go aggressive and attack you or whether persistence will make it possible to drive one individual from its herd without having the rest nipping on your heels.

In other words, don't hunt a bear like it's a stag, or a forest reindeer like it's a wolf.

September 29, 2017, 08:11:33 PM
1
Re: Few questions about trapping and a couple of misc questions Regarding a "stable":
I build my stables as windowless (so you don't see them moving while crafting, which can decrease the FPS consideraby otherwise) buildings with a 3*3 interior size area to house a cow and a sheep (for mod wool), and I think a floor/ceiling is a good idea as animals don't leave tracks on floors, so the animals will not contribute to "item" clutter. Outside the door I build an "airlock" of a fence on each side of the door and a door (flanked by fences) outside of that so I can open one door, go through, close it, and then open the next one without the animals escaping. In the cases where animals get to share the space with the stable door I can just open it again, push them inside, and close the door, without risking their escape. The only trouble I've had is with companions who apparently have poles sticking out of their arses, as they keep opening doors without closing them afterwards, thus releasing the animals.

September 30, 2017, 12:30:33 PM
1
Re: Kotas Hey, someone took inspiration from my fortress!  ;D

For regular kota, you can have a 5x5 layout: the frame in the very centre, a 1-tile walkway around that, and a layer of wall/door on the outside.

For oversized kota buildings, think of it as very slowly painting your kota into existence from one side to the other. Plan out the trail your frame will go to build your kota and build the floors and walls around and behind (but not in front! frames can't go on floors) the frame, moving it one square away each time. You will always end up with one ground space when your kota is done.

For walls, you can go two ways about it. Contiguous walls (like in the old post) take more time, but are prettier. You'll build 3 wall sections every time you lay a frame. Don't build corner walls and move the frame just enough to continue the wall with another 3 walls. Repeat as needed.
If you don't care about aesthetics, you can build the corner walls and save time on assembling/disassembling the frame.

Whatever you do to get your oversized kota, there's one thing to remember: never build a wall next to a frame unless you want the frame to stay.

Edit: Pictures!

These are the standard kota layouts. You'll probably never see #3 in villages.


This is how to build a 7x7 kota (5x5 floor space). Lighter blue and yellow are where you will build walls and floors relative to where the frame (dark green) currently is; dark blue and yellow are previously-built walls and floors. The thin lines are the floor coverage of the framework.


This is how to build a kota wall:

November 29, 2017, 03:25:08 PM
1
Re: Lifetimers and Supporting URW/Enormous Elk
In the Dec. 3 Development News, Sami mentioned Lifetimers and their early access to the 3.5 beta.  I've also seen some of the forum posters with their "Honorary Lifetime Supporter Member" badges.

Does this relate to the purchase of a lifetime license?  Are those still available? 

I encountered URW through Steam and can't see where to purchase a lifetime license.  I also can't see this on the URW website.  I do see the donation link, but there is no mention of a perpetual license or access to the beta releases.  Can anyone shed some light on this?  Thanks!

All the lifetimers who have their accounts badged (yes, that honorary lifetime supporter) will find new versions at forum dedicated section. 3.50beta is not released yet, though.

If you are lifetimer who is missing a badge fill this form:
http://www.unrealworld.fi/urw_lifetime-membership-form.html

On Steam we don't sell lifetime license. That's something people there wouldn't understand. Basically on Steam we sell a version with updates for some years ahead. There's no definite tags added, but at least if the version number should go up to 4.* it's a new product to be launched on Steam.

Lifetime licenses haven't been actively promoted for quite some time, because co-existence with Steam<>donation-based got confusing enough. But if somebody wants it, I don't stop people from grand donations, and can set up new lifetime members.

December 03, 2017, 06:34:01 PM
1
Re: Psychic enemies No, you probably didn't actually follow my advice (or at least not my tactic). If the enemy is gaining ground, don't allow them to gain extra ground by firing at them: firing should almost always be reserved for when they're so slowed down that you can both fire and back away without them reaching you. If civilian reach you, DON'T switch weapons and start swinging, as that will definitely allow the rest of them to catch up. Instead, continue to back away, even if they get a few feeble hits in. Fighting is quite exhausting and running saps stamina, so they'll eventually become slow enough to allow you to both fire and back off, at which time they're easy pickings. They will either swing, run, or recover sufficient breath to do one of those. The slower your character is the harder it is to succeed with this tactic, of course (which is one reason why you shouldn't overload the armor, while the other is that you'll tire too fast). Don't expect to do any substantial attacks until you've backed for two or three world tiles. Don't attack unless you're at zero exhaustion. If have any exhaustion, back away and recover, even if you have a clear shot (if they're sufficiently tired you can stand in place and recover rather than back away).
The mistake I think I did with my character was that when he suffered the second injury that caused everything to be harder, I continued to try to back away even though he could hardly move at that stage: I should have switched to melee to try to kill/incapacitate them (they were almost completely exhausted as well) and then try to flee, but I'm not sure if that would have been possible.

December 04, 2017, 05:17:13 PM
1