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Advanced Combat Hello , this post i want to make so we can talk about combat , not killing a few lonely njerps or robbers but im talking about full blown war.
My first characters were evil, as i didn't know the ritual system or what was good or evil , i used to take out whole civilisations no matther who they were.
Now that i've become a little more experienced , my characters live good lives , which means not killing fellow woodmans for easy supplys , never murdering a companion and so on. Even though i admit killing a few foreign traders , which in my opinion is fair play because they can defend themselves more than any other group or culture.

That being said , i now have only 1 ennemie , the njerps.
I've been leading the great war agaisnt them for 2 winters now.
I took about half thei're civilizations with my remi brothers.
I am a owl tribe bow-men that is also handy with the ango.

What i want to talk about is strategy. I used to recruit 10-12 adventurers , woodmans and hunters to help me fight. I wasted alot of villages as the loses we're great and i was greedy on loot. I would say for each remi village i lost  i probably took out 2 njperp villages. Which is not that bad.
Until one day i was in my car thinking about it and i came accross a genius idea! Saving my companions. lol.
As dumb as it may sounds , it made all the difference. I now equip my fellow wariors with full fur gear , a cuirass and a helm.
What bothers me is that sometimes they dont wear it all , or they deny the cuirass for an overcoat. I wish i could handle thei're equipement myself but that's just a pipe dream. I give them battle axes if they're axe men and fine spears for spear dudes. But i avoid recruiting bow men , as they often friendly fire. Bow men companions must have killed atleast 7 of my dogs , shot me in the head multiple times (thank god for my masterwork iron spectacle helm) and often shoot other wariors.
My last 2 raids we're incredebly succesfull after doing this , i have'nt lost a single friend , but i stop after average 2 njerp village , and i send the grieviously wounded home. Also , i became a combat medic. As soon as one of my guys is bleeding i hit shift+r and run to save his life with golden rod that i keep handy at all times.

I am about to hit my third raid in hopes to keep evryone alive once again. But you never know who is gona get almost chopped in half.
Maybe even me. But Akku as proven himself a great warior. I also like to attack at night in the summer so we don't get to fight all the njerps at the same time and sometimes i even get to stab 1 or 2 while they are sleeping. As cruel as it may sound , i do not feel unreal world remorse for them , as they would do me dirty without even thinking about it. And the swearing does'nt help i admit.

So yeah , if you guys don't do big fights already i hope this help you , if you do i would like to know what you guys do in such situations and what gear you give to your companions.

Cheers , purplemate

PS: I am very excited for the new update coming up. I have not donated yet because i am a bit short on funds at the moment.(yes i feel bad about it) But unreal world is one of my favorite games and i won't forget to do so. I've made a suggestion post before without realizing it was selfish to ask for things without giving back and for that i apologize. And forgive my spelling english is my second language even if it's not an excuse.

Good day to you all

August 10, 2019, 10:08:40 PM
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Re: Advanced Combat You reminded of the start of Beodrin Two-Bears

Starting with the bad hunting trip is dad was killed by a bear. The starting location turned out to be an island of only a few tiles. At the time the only way to rope I knew of was with leather... for which I would have to kill said bear. LOL. This was like my second play through long before the BAC modding skills you see today. I spent weeks on the small island with the bear noticing that the two of us were running out of berries and the only other thing for him to eat was me...


August 28, 2019, 04:59:58 PM
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Micromanaging Rope lengths problem Why are entire lengths of ropes wasted when you only need 5 feet of a 30 foot rope for a single arrow?
I'd like to use a really long piece of cord for when I'm crafting arrows in large batches. It should be assumed that my character is clever enough to separate the rope into pieces automatically during the craft time. Instead of having to manually cut 5 foot sections of cord for every single arrow I want.
This goes for every other recipe with rope lengths. I was confused as well when I tried drying 50 pieces of meat at once with a long rope and saw afterwards that the remaining 15 feet disappeared.

October 29, 2019, 08:36:57 PM
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Re: Rope used up
Further question, i remember it was clever to smoke 19 pieces of meat at a time with a tying equipment.

After the update with the length of the tying equipment, is it Still adviced?


Sorry, but no. each foot of rope holds 2 pieces of meat now. A full 15ft cord or rope will hold 30. I like to make 5 cords and cut 2 of them into 10 and 5 ft pieces, then join them into 3 cords of 25ft. This lets you do the maximum of the recipe - 50 pieces - with each cord.

   - Shane

January 24, 2020, 05:45:30 AM
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Re: Roleplaying I like giving gifts to Sages and make sure I greet each of the craftspeople as well as a way to earn the right to trade.


I have rituals for the non-ritual items:
Reindeer antlers have to be scattered in a grove.
Seal skulls have to placed on a rock in the sea or river.
Elk antlers have to placed in a cave.

The first cut of a kill goes to the Spirits, the next goes to the dogs who brought it down.


 


June 26, 2020, 09:03:09 PM
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More usefulness for curing Ok ok I know I've been spamming suggestions, but I still have to speak on the other part of hide-ousness: curing  ;D

The first part was about tanning terminology:
https://www.unrealworld.fi/forums/index.php?topic=5835.msg15624#msg15624

I don't cure skins in this game. Curing makes skins stuck in place and tanning is far quicker overall anyway. And you still have to clean the skin which isn't required for drying IRL. Fleshing is easier on dry skin anyway. (The membranes break off more easily on dry skin.) Doesn't really work when travelling, either. Really curing should be the thing to do when travelling and little time. The skins will continue drying hanging from the rucksack anyway, once they've initially become a bit dry.

I'd like to see curing as the default procedure for storage just like IRL. Tanning is a lot of work. Not every skinned hide will be tanned, only those that need to be. Also I don't think the fur trappers of old IRL tanned the hides themselves. The woodsman would definitely bring cured hides home first, maybe tan them then. Tanning is primarily concern of the craftsperson who gets their skins from hunters/herders, because only they know what qualities (how thoroughly tanned (hard), for instance) they want from the tanning for the work they are planning to use it for. Of course on commercial scale is different - I don't know how foreign traders would have wanted their furs.

Also, not every hide in use is tanned. Nowadays snowmobile-sled-hides aren't and old-days kota covers most likely neither. The skin is relatively cheap to replace in kota cover if its only dried (cured). A valuable-in-working-time tanned hide wouldn't have been wasted for something so trivial.

So, getting finally to my suggestion:

1) Curing should be immediately available for fresh skins
2) shorten curing times to max overnight or allow picking up of skins with curing still continuing

3) accept cured hides for kota covers and "sleeping in furs"
3) complicate tanning to make it more realistic and to encourage curing to be used more
4) make cured skins available in villages and for trade - preferably much more commonly than tanned hides. I understand this would affect game balance significantly and prices would need to be adjusted accordingly, with tanning lifting the cost especially of big hides - not so much of the valuable small furs.

EDIT: reordered priorities and added '1' from the terminology thread linked above

October 24, 2020, 06:16:17 PM
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Making sleeping more safe. I have read a few stories about people getting attacked in their sleep, and I don't think it's very realistic.
Wild animals have very light sleep. Even my dog wakes up pretty much always when I just try to just get up from a chair while she is sleeping.
People back then were probably quite a bit more similar to animals, and they probably knew something could possibly kill them in their sleep if they didn't wake up, so I bet they would wake up if they heard something suspicious.
Even I myself wake up every time someone enters my room when I sleep, and I know why I woke up, so I think if something opens door to your cabin in the middle of forest, or gets really close to you it should be 100% chance you wake up (unless you have very poor hearing). Especially if you have seen e.g. a njerpez warrior, or a bear, the day before (or, a few days).
Also I think you should be also able to bar the door. It's not that hard to make something that allows you to prevent door from being opened from outside.
And for now the wake up messages are very general "You think you heard some rustle" or "You think you saw something move in the distance".
Considering, that I myself often know what I am woken up by, I think our character should also know it. Not always, but the closer the sound source is, and the more dangerous it feels to character, the highest chance there should be he knows.
So if you hear another human is close to you, and approaching you in your sleep, you should wake up and get message "You think you hear footsteps". If it's a bear, "You think you hear walking big animal". But if it's either far away, or just a squirrel/some bird, then it would make sense to not know what woke you up, because your mind doesn't put much attention to it.

April 09, 2021, 09:10:57 PM
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Re: Hunting gripe Honestly, I don't think active hunting is that bad. But the caveat here is that you are somewhat "forced" (quotes are emphasized) to build your character in a certain way. You need fast character with high eyesight with bow or spear skill high, good endurance. Which makes sense, these are fundamental for hunting in wild. I tried to tackle this with trying out some crossbow builds with a Driik character, but creating a Kaumo is way easier. You don't need to push it too much, I honestly left some game after I missed the first shot. If I am in a thick forest, I look to hit them on the first shot otherwise tracking them is not my priority unless I need the meat or the skin badly.

One thing that irritated me when I was active hunting, was the damage. It always felt like my grandmaster bowman was just not able to get a critical hit on a game, I always resorted to endurance hunting because the arrow did almost no damage, but looking at the game as a whole, masterwork bow and arrow needs an edge so that they are a lot more preferable. I realized that my initial reaction to the problem was stemming from the fact that my hunting tactic almost completely revolves around getting the first hit. So damage annoyed me more than it should because I relied on it too much. In a similar manner, I think depending on a single style often results in frustration.

As for the graphical limitations, I think the game would benefit greatly from a widescreen support. This is no easy task by any means but I think it would greatly improve player's time spent in a thick forest or searching for arrows. There are some graphical edits you can make to get tracks and arrows stand out more but these are rather "hacks" more than anything. But don't let this make your game experience worse for you. If you find yourself squinting way too much and you get eye fatigue, why not do the graphical mods. It is not multiplayer, you are not taking away anyone else's game experience, so why not.

August 08, 2021, 01:53:54 PM
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Automatic Punt Deployment Heya Sami and/or Erkka,

I have a suggestion regarding the use of punts in the wilderness map.

Whenever you use a punt, you have to first deploy it on the zoom map and then you can zoom out into the wilderness map. After that, if you happen to come into contact with land, you need to once again enter the zoom map, row to the shore, pick up the punt, and then you can go back to the wilderness map.

I find the aforementioned process to be incredibly tedious, especially when you need to cross a large distance on land--running into rivers in Driik territory is especially frustrating; manoeuvring the Islanders' region is also quite annoying.

My suggestion is as follows:

If someone has a punt in their inventory and a paddle equipped, the punt should automatically deploy if they attempt to walk off the shore and into the water. Likewise, if they are riding a punt, the punt should automatically be put back into their inventory (if they have space) if they attempt to row into a land mass. This should all happen regardless of whether the person is using the wilderness or zoom maps.

Ideally, this change could be toggled in the settings--I would greatly prefer that the player is not asked to confirm the action every time it is attempted. After all, the overall objective is mostly to allow one to quickly travel long distances by, for example, holding whatever button they use to walk/row forward.

Thank you for reading~

-Aabri

January 17, 2022, 10:17:23 PM
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Re: Tips about dogs?
Well, ever since I was suggested to get a dog, i went far north, to the Owl-Tribe Lands and got myself a dog, so, I was afraid of some things, like, my house is on a land surrounded by water, so I'd have to bring my dog swimming, and I'm afraid it drowns or freezes to death, or something bad happens to it, I just wanna make sure what should I know about my dogs and what should I avoid from happening to my dog, I'd appreciate your help, thanks.

I've experimented with dogs extensively, here are some random Dog Tips, in no particular order:
  • If you have not done so yet, might be a good idea to read the relevant wiki page, here: https://unrealworld.fi/wiki/index.php?title=Dog
  • Every Unreal World dog owner should read this one post from @Ara D.  It does not come in handy every day but eventually, one day, you will need it -> https://www.unrealworld.fi/forums/index.php?topic=5378.msg13073#msg13073
  • For dog owners, there is a Hunting Horn item in the game world; as per linked wiki article it lets your dogs hear where you are, calls your dogs back, and signals dogs to stop attacking non-aggressive targets.
    To be clear it helps you recall your dogs from longer range (compared to your voice). You cannot self-produce it.
    Hunting Horn wiki article is a single line but it is discussed in these forums in a few places, here is one such thread specifically on this item -> https://www.unrealworld.fi/forums/index.php?topic=5718.0
    Earlier, I posted my findings on how to obtain a Hunting Horn here -> https://www.unrealworld.fi/forums/index.php?topic=5718.msg19267#msg19267
  • It is certainly possible to have a zero dog leash policy this applies both when staying in one place and also when travelling. I do not recommend this (detailed below).
  • When hunting actively you can command your dog(s) to attack via the keyboard shortcut: ! but be aware this can lead to the loss of the said dog(s).
  • Every dog that attacks (something) is a dog at risk. Other than the risk of getting lightly or seriously wounded, an attacking dog may also get insta-killed or it may simply never return and even after extensive search you may never find it or its dead body. Be prepared for the loss but probably do all you can to minimise that risk. What the dog is attacking is very important. Attacking wolves is suicidal, bears is risky. Attacking reindeer/stag/elk is also risky but I do this frequently.
  • WHAT they are attacking is important but HOW MANY dogs attacking is also an important factor. When commanding your dogs to attack non-wolves (reindeer/elk/boar/bear/human/...), sending more dogs have more chances of winning the battle without a loss. The more you sent against wolves (especially wolf packs) have the opposite effect, you will probably lose more dogs. Do not send dogs against wolves.
  • When commanding dogs to attack, I always try and send two dogs. On my mind this lowers lost-dog ratio via two reasons. Due to the turn based attack system, when dogs chase and eventually corner an animal (say an Elk), 2-vs-1 they have much greater chance of winning the fight and surviving. Second reason is if one dog does get seriously injured & passes out (or gets killed) the other dog eventually may do better (say against an Elk) 2nd dog may either kill it or at least constantly bark and announce Elk's position. Your other (dying or dead) dog would most likely be nearby thus existence of a second dog gives you a better chance of spotting the lost dog and if it is not dead yet you will have a chance to apply bandage and stop its bleeding. In worst case scenario you will have access to the dead dog's body (see the last tip below).
  • Be aware of the dog-left-behind risk: while in zoomed map mode, if you unleash your dog and it runs away from you (e.g.: chasing an animal), and then you decide to leave that area either in zoomed-in map mode (by walking/running/watercraft) or by switching to the zoomed-out map mode by pressing ENTER key, the unleashed dogs that are physically away from you will stay in their physical location. They will not be able to find you again. If you press ENTER to switch to zoomed-out map mode, game will warn you with something like "dog X will stay behind - are you sure?"
  • If you have a missing dog, sometimes waiting in that general area for an extended amount of time can help and the dog can eventually make its way to you. If it is injured it may eventually come back. If it is scared & run away, it may come back. If it was actively chasing an animal, eventually will give up and come back etc.
  • Having lost dogs many times, in the end, I decided (for me at least) it is best to keep dogs leashed most of the time when travelling. At times of opt-in battle (i.e.: a fight that YOU start) this keeps you in tactical control without wasting time on leashing animals. Tactical control helps in terms of when the dogs should attack and how many dogs should attack (as I generally have half a dozen dogs or more).
  • At times of forced battle (e.g.: wolves/bear/Njerp/bandits attack you) likewise you have more tactical control. You might sacrifice some dog(s) and pull back with the rest for example. If they were unleashed they would all rocket away towards the target without giving you the chance to do so.
  • When you have a camp/settlement with an enclosure you can leave your dogs unleashed as it is impossible for them to disappear but still not recommended as a bear can open the settlement door and end up surprising you in your sleep in a 1v1 situation inside the building but if your dogs are tied to you, it would never be 1v1.
  • You can use your dogs (and any other animal pig/reindeer etc.) as pack mules although it would take away the dog from fighting-dogs group thus if you are serious about hauling stuff you should look into a proper truck (Big Bull, Bull, Cow) and keep dogs as fighters where there are more valuable and capable. Be advised of the risk: using a dog as pack mule quickly tires the dog and makes it an ineffective chaser/fighter.
  • Dogs are limited quantity trade items but it is hard to globally run out of unless you lose dogs at an alarming rate or with limited loss rate keep playing the same game for a long time (rate dependent but maybe 4 or more in-game years). I cannot recall a recent version game in which villages run out of dogs to sell.
  • When leaving your settlement, dog(s) can be left behind to guard your settlement and protect other animals (sheep etc.)
  • Hungry dogs will bark frequently and be ineffective at fighting/chasing. Feed them to get rid of the annoyance & loss of performance.
  • A dead dog is sad news but not a total waste unless you so choose (it can be skinned & its meat can be butchered)

April 14, 2022, 01:06:38 PM
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