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Choose the starting Culture based on skills Here is a short commentary/guide to the starting cultures, based on the simple analysis of the starting skill bonuses/maluses. This should help any beginner looking to make things smoother for themselves.. or harder, if masochistic :)

  • Reemi, Sarto, Kaumo and Kiesse are quite versatile tribes, with bonuses far outweighing the maluses. Good choice for beginners, especially if the right tribe is chosen for a specific play style (eg, choose Sarto for agriculture-related characters, Kaumo for warriors and active hunters, Reemi for trappers and Kiesse for the prototypical woodsman.)
  • Owls have many maluses (which reduces their versatility in using multiple weapons and wood/construction stuff, but also fishing), but are probably the best active hunters (Kaumo is easier to play overall but takes more grinding to raise some important skills). This is your bow-sniper character, able to track down quickly the prey, kill it and produce high-quality hides, as well as identify useful herbs.
  • Seal tribes are not as bad as you would think from their -4. They are the best spear-users, club-users, fishers and "shamans". Their stealth bonus is also good. They make fun (and reality-appropriate) seal-hunters if you don't go the easy way (eg, traps): sneak up, throw your javelin/spear and club to death. I enjoyed playing as one.
  • Driik seem very "poor", but they have the best sword, shield and crossbow bonuses. Most other tribes have maluses there, or at best a zero. They might make for interesting atypical characters.
  • Islanders are the best weather predictors.. which is sadly useless (maybe for some quests? not sure). They can only swim, fish and carve wooden objects better than default, and have plenty of important maluses. More "carpentry" options (eg, fishbone carvery?) might make them more appealing in the future.
  • Kuikka are essentially lesser Owl that can fish very well (like Islanders and Seal-tribe), and carve wooden objects decently. Never got interested in playing as one.
  • Koivulanen.. these are weird. They have good Agriculture, like the Sarto, and also small tracking&trapping bonuses. They have a bonus to the least used weapon, the flail. That's it - however, they also lack significant maluses. Herblore & Physician only. So they make for the real average man, which can be interesting for the expert player.

Source of the above: the ini_skills.txt shipped with the game. I uploaded it on the wiki for easy consultation.

I found the actual file a bit hard to read - a table works much better. Also, I prefer a bonus/malus view (eg, difference compared to the default) instead of the absolute numbers.

It would be great to also have a table for attribute bonuses.. what we have was found empirically a long time ago and I'm not sure how accurate it is.

I find, however, that when planning a character I care more about the skills than the attributes, since I'm a heavy roller to get high values (or I even correct the attributes manually, if I can't be bothered to roll). So it doesn't affect me overmuch.

(URW version 3.4)

August 28, 2017, 04:00:35 PM
NOTE: not tested yet! I'm putting it here to self-motivate to finish it soon, now that I've posted it :D

Taking inspiration from this website:

All the milk was made into cheese or sour milk Uusivirta writes that people in ancient times ate cheeses cooked from sour milk as their everyday food. For feast they cooked cheeses using eggs. To sour milk for to make cheese there are several ways; wild plants (for example nettle) and the stomach of certain animals (Uusivirta, Rautavaara, Israelsson). Traditional sour product is also quark, spaghanum. Butter was made by processing the milk by hand in Iron Age, since we did have no churns in Iron-Age Finland.

and to make better use of nettle (otherwise never preferred to Hemp in agriculture) and salt (never preferred to smoking/drying), I set off to make a simple setting-appropriate cheesemaking recipe.

The idea is the following: first you need "rennet" (only vegetable-based here), which will spoil after a few days. The rennet allows fast curdling of the milk, thus giving you "cheese".

.Nettle Rennet. *COOKERY* /30/ %10% |1| [effort:1] :148:
{*nettle leaves} #1# [remove] [boil]
{Water} #1# [remove] [boil]
{Salt} #0.1# [remove] [boil]

.Sorrel Rennet. *COOKERY* /15/ %10% |1| [effort:2] :148:
{*sorrel leaves} #1# [remove] [boil]
{Water} #0.1# [remove] [boil]
{Knife}<Small knife>
{Wooden bowl} '+as support'

.Fresh Cheese. *COOKERY* /15/ \1d\ %10% |0| [effort:1] :148:
{Milk}    #5#    [remove] [roast]
{*rennet} #0.3#  'Rennet for curdling'  [remove] [roast]
{Salt}    #0.1#  [remove] [roast]
{Bandage} '+to drain the whey' [remove]
{Pot} '+to boil the milk'
{Wooden bowl} '+to mould the cheese'

.Wrapped Cheese. *COOKERY* /15/ \30d\ %10% |-1| [effort:0] :148:
{Fresh Cheese} [remove] [roast]
{Nettle Leaves} #1# '+as wrapping' [remove] [roast]


  • graphic tiles for rennet and cheeses
  • test if total quantity fits a pot
  • maybe separate the nettle/sorrel rennet production from the cheese, so that people can use any rennet they want. (and in the future, also make rennet from lamb stomach)
  • this is a soft, perishable cheese. It would be great to differentiate "soft" and "hard cheese" by making two different recipes starting from this "very soft cheese" and letting them mature for a few days (soft) or weeks (hard). The former might have a few months of shelf life, the latter being essentially non-perishable (or, say, two years spoilage time)

PS: here there's the full process with pictures! (only for nettle rennet)

August 30, 2017, 03:16:55 PM
Re: Cheesemaking I've shamelessly taken the "it-egg" and "it-bread" tiles to make "it-fcheese" and "it-wcheese" respectively. My art skills are non-existent so there is that.. but they should suffice.
August 30, 2017, 08:43:48 PM
Re: Culture Poll You just inspired me to make a Kuikka char :)

PS: I had exactly the same game idea, inspired by a combination of playing URW and watching "The Revenant" :D

August 31, 2017, 09:50:42 AM
Add "wetness" penalty to clothes You are in the coldest days of winter. The "cold bar" is empty. You should stay indoor like the many game guides say, treasuring your firewood, but you don't care: you are fully clothed in deer with woollen footrags, mittens and cowl. You could dip into a frozen river and come back up, and instead of freezing to death you'd warm back to optimal.

Why? Because the warm system of clothes (which is simple but works very well, usually!) fails to take "wetness" into account.


  • Every wearable piece must have two additional fields: wetness and wet-warmth. When wetness is full, the effective warmth is equal to the wet-warmth. When wetness is empty, the effective warmth is the usual "warmth" field for this item. If willing to go the extra mile, effective warmth decreases linearly with wetness, with minimum being the "wet-warmth" and maximum the base warmth.
  • Dipping increases the wetness very rapidly for some materials, and less for others. Linen/nettle/wool should go instantaneously to maximum wetness. Fur would only be half-wet if you go out immediately. Leather and, special case, seal fur, go 25% wet at every turn: so getting in water and coming out immediately only makes you 25% wet. I would also make the wet-warmth closer to the effective warmth for seal fur and leather (as well as iron/mail/lamellar, for all the good it'd do).
  • Rain and snow make you wet little by little, proportionally to the rain/snow strength and the material of the cloth, like above.
  • Ambient temperatures reduces the wetness with time, proportionally. Changing clothes to dry your wet ones by the fire/in your smokehouse becomes a thing.

This would make seal fur great again (as well as leather), excluding the coldest months of winter, because of its reliability under wet conditions. Your nice reindeer suite is still great but you need to keep covered, as one supposed ancient Finns did.

Extra happiness if the first to get wet is the outer layer (the last worn) for each body part, so that having a seal overcoat over your bear/stag suite makes a lot of sense.

August 31, 2017, 03:33:08 PM
Re: Luckiest kill?
Been dealing with some serious predator problems at my homestead - a lynx, a couple of foxes, and now a pack of wolves. The foxes have gone for my traps, but the lynx and wolves seem to be uninterested, so I'm trying to hunt them down before they manage to pick off my final bull (I had three bulls and a cow when this whole fiasco started).

Just made a max-range bow shot to the eye of a wolf! And my bow skill is only in the 60s, though it's helped by my fine longbow and superior broadhead arrows  ;D

If you still have this problem (or for the future), I noticed that some wolves completely ignore the "heavy deadfall bear trap" (even if baited. Tested for weeks in-game with a wolf pack harassing my farm), while they go straight into the "big deadfall trap".

I killed 4 wolves in the first two days of the attack - they went quickly for the traps. But the last two wouldn't be baited. It was becoming ludicrous. Every day I hunted them down with three dogs, but they always escaped. Every night they came and made my dogs bark like crazy, while avoiding the many traps I had put all around (they passed through the fences). I also reset them once in a while, and my trapping skill was high.

Eventually I got out of my stupid moment, and decided to use the traps actually MEANT for wolves: big deadfall traps. With one of those I bagged both wolves in a day or two. Never a wolf rug was more satisfying.

September 01, 2017, 05:50:40 PM
Re: Taking things out of bag?
I do know you can stuff raw meat into a skin/bag and then roast the entire skin/bag.  You then get a mass of cooked meat and the skin/bag disappears.

Well, that's.. cool. You essentially discovered the sausage in URW?!

September 01, 2017, 05:56:22 PM
Re: Impossible quest
Thus, I have learned two things from you: First, I can harvest the leaves of bear pipe in game while it hasn't ripened yet. Second, people here, especially you, are quite impolite and if they are in a bad mood, they are insulting each other just for fun, because it isn't just enough to be right, trying to humilate others while having the advantage is fun.

Without entering the specific subject of this topic, I want to remark on this. This forum doesn't seem to be such a hellhole, does it? It's quite the opposite. Some nastiness may happen from time to time but mostly people are very nice and helpful. Where does this anger come from? Have you had bad experiences?

PALU especially is a great help in this community - and I've never seen him being rude. Take that as you will.

September 03, 2017, 09:33:15 AM
Re: Buoidda's Crafts 1.6.2 (Help) Just an idea based on metagaming - why not "flail" skill? The movement is kind of related (rapidly "swinging" a weight linked to a string), but most importantly it's a quite unused skill, since most cultures have flail skill penalties. Only three cultures have flail bonuses: Koivu, Reemi and Sarto. Koivu in particular is the least loved of the cultures, so your sling could be an incentive to select it :)

EDIT: I initially suggested unarmed, but flail is much more "appropriate" for the reasons above.

September 05, 2017, 12:14:35 PM
Re: Buoidda's Crafts 1.6.2 (Help) Yep, you can use the tile of rope or cord by adding this tag:

Code: [Select]
For example, or it-rope for rope, clearly :)

You can even use a custom tile if you save it in the truetile/ folder as a png.

September 05, 2017, 12:36:14 PM