46
Modding / Re: Moddable animals?
« on: February 19, 2020, 01:01:34 AM »
Tree trunks weigh 500 lbs in-game, and carved logs weigh 400 lbs in-game.
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47
Gameplay questions / Re: Robbers quest - any new ways to find them?
« on: February 19, 2020, 12:58:34 AM »
I'm assuming you know what their icon looks like right? They are indistinguishable from adventurers. Other than that, on the world map, go to higher places to see units from farther away. In particular, mountains > hills > lichenous forest > heathland > coniferous forest > spruce mire > pine mire > open mire which is the same as open fields.
Also, some places provide cover to units on the map, the aforementioned coniferous forest and spruce mire tend to do a good job of hiding units on the world map, although not always. Bigger groups like robbers tend to be easier to spot. Also, your eyesight plays a big role in spotting units on the world map.
Also, some places provide cover to units on the map, the aforementioned coniferous forest and spruce mire tend to do a good job of hiding units on the world map, although not always. Bigger groups like robbers tend to be easier to spot. Also, your eyesight plays a big role in spotting units on the world map.
48
Gameplay questions / Re: Various questions from a new player
« on: February 13, 2020, 06:12:42 AM »
If it's cold outside, meat will spoil slower outside of your inventory than inside your inventory. This bonus also stacks with the cellar, as far as I'm aware. Once the food is either smoked or dried however, I believe only the cellar will prolong the shelf life of your meat.
Alternatively, meat held by human companions doesn't seem to spoil either, but I think that is only intended so that your companion doesn't starve.
Alternatively, meat held by human companions doesn't seem to spoil either, but I think that is only intended so that your companion doesn't starve.
49
Gameplay questions / Re: Various questions from a new player
« on: February 12, 2020, 07:06:04 AM »
Actually, characters with high speed, endurance, and heavy body weight (body weight helps you carry more, which means minimal equipment weighs you down less) can run down big game like elk, reindeer, and stag. You need to be fully zoomed out, and you need to take walking breaks when you no longer see the animal, but you can run down big game directly. Works best in early spring, when there is some snow on the ground. Enough to leave tracks, but preferably not enough to fatigue you while walking.
High tracking skill helps, as does persistance hunting in pine forests (not spruce forests or spruce mires), and persistance hunting along a river or body of water.
Some animals are generated with better stamina, or speed, but not all of them are. Also, cubs tend to be slower, so if you want to play dirty, injuring the cub and then staying a small distance away, will cause the mother to come back and then run away constantly. She wont (or at least shouldn't) tire herself out this way, but this can be a way to potentially take 2 animals down at once. Cub meat and fur gains have been nerfed in recent versions, but if your character is starving, killing the cub is still a way to deal with your hunger for the next few months, if you preserve it correctly.
Running down animals directly isn't normally how your supposed to hunt though.
Also, I have lost characters while falling out of a tree that I told them to climb. The most gruesome one was a fairly fresh male Kamoulious archer that I rolled up with high stats. I had just finished skinning and butchering a stag and was weighed down to nearly my carry limit for that character. I tried climbing a tree, having forgotten to drop the heavy load, and he fell out of the tree after climbing about like 35, maybe 45 feet up the tree. Landed on his crotch and died instantly.
High tracking skill helps, as does persistance hunting in pine forests (not spruce forests or spruce mires), and persistance hunting along a river or body of water.
Some animals are generated with better stamina, or speed, but not all of them are. Also, cubs tend to be slower, so if you want to play dirty, injuring the cub and then staying a small distance away, will cause the mother to come back and then run away constantly. She wont (or at least shouldn't) tire herself out this way, but this can be a way to potentially take 2 animals down at once. Cub meat and fur gains have been nerfed in recent versions, but if your character is starving, killing the cub is still a way to deal with your hunger for the next few months, if you preserve it correctly.
Running down animals directly isn't normally how your supposed to hunt though.
Also, I have lost characters while falling out of a tree that I told them to climb. The most gruesome one was a fairly fresh male Kamoulious archer that I rolled up with high stats. I had just finished skinning and butchering a stag and was weighed down to nearly my carry limit for that character. I tried climbing a tree, having forgotten to drop the heavy load, and he fell out of the tree after climbing about like 35, maybe 45 feet up the tree. Landed on his crotch and died instantly.
50
Gameplay questions / Re: crafting items would take far too long?
« on: October 23, 2019, 12:32:13 AM »
If the task takes longer than 12 hours to complete in-game then the game wont let you go through with it. Exception being hauling items I think...
51
Not bugs / Re: Cellar in building- problem smoking/drying
« on: October 14, 2019, 12:20:59 AM »
Drying dosn't require a floor or ceiling tile though, so drying should still work on a cellar, unless something else has changed.
52
Gameplay questions / Re: Question about Combat and Accuracy
« on: October 12, 2019, 02:24:05 AM »
Few things to add, and I'm not to sure about these, but...
- Different ranged weapons have different optimal ranges. Primitive and shortbows are better at close range, i.e. 10 tiles ish. Where as hunting bows are better at 15, and longbows are better at 20 or so. Not sure where the northern bow is good at. Crossbows seem to be better between a range of 5 to 15 tiles, although you will probably only get 1 shot off at most. Crossbows are more accurate than regular bows, given an equal level of mastery. I beleive fine quality added to either the ranged weapon or the ammunition adds +1 impact (additional damage), and masterwork quality adds +1 impact and 10% to your ranged skill. I don't know if multiple bonuses stack, and if they do, how they would stack.
- Throwing weapons, basically Javelins, Northern Spears, and Throwing Axes all seem to have an optimal tile range of 4 - 8 tiles or so. Same rules for quality here apply to ammunition.
- I don't know what range is optimal for rocks, but it's better than stones, and weapons that probably aren't supposed to be thrown like swords.
- Anything in the path between you and your target is an obstacle. This includes animals leashed to you. You can't shoot over your small leashed dog. You can shoot over the fence, or the shutters in a building however.
- Weather you are still at range or in melee combat, it's important to use "F3" to look at what your opponent is wearing and wielding. Shooting or swinging at a part that has metalic armour is a bad idea, unless you have no better choice. Regardless of what weapon you are using, it's often better to attack parts of the body that have inadequate protection as hit's to those areas will do more damage. While all clothing provides some protection, the armor to watch out for is fur, leather, lamellar(?), chainmail, and then iron plate. If fur types get added to NPC gear, bear fur armor protects more than leather, unless I'm mistaken. Fur also seems to protect more in general due to blocking more blunt, but that's just from my personal experience.
- Shooting at somebody wielding a shield is often a bad idea, especially if they are wielding it at CENTER, because this protects that person from ranged attacks that would hit anywhere from neck to knees, which is usually where your shots will end up. HIGH protects the head, at the expense of leaving the lower body exposed.
- Different weapons are better for combat than others due to their attack bonuses. In particular, weapons in the spear class are usually better for attacking than most other weapons, with the exception of the Northern Spear, Javelin, and Small Trident, as those are worse for direct melee combat than normal, and the Battleaxe, Battle-sword, Bastard-sword, and Maul due to having either an attack bonus of 4 or 5. All of the weapons with good attack bonuses are two handed and suffer from penalties when the other hand is not free. Of these, the Bastard-Sword and Trident only suffer a 10% penalty, and the Battle-Axe only suffers a 15% penalty when paired with a shield.
- No weapon is good at blocking. The Trident, and the two staves (the regular craftable staff and the hard staff) are okay at blocking attacks. Every other weapon is bad for blocking attacks and you probably shouldn't bother. If you are going to block attacks, you want a Roundshield, as it has the best blocking properties, and is relitively cheap to replace which is important because blocking weapons will put wear on your equipment, as is currently the only thing to put wear and tear on your weapons and shields from what I can see. Also, no weapon can block arrows or other projectiles, only shields can do this. The reason you block is to try to disarm your opponent. If you don't have good shield skill (if you are using a roundshield) or good spear skill (using staves or trident), than this is a bad idea, as you will probably take several hits before you disarm your opponent and they often have a backup weapon anyway. You also arn't doing any damage to them directly while blocking their weapons. Animals are already disarmed in the traditional sense and cannot be made less dangers by merely blocking them. However if you have invested points into shield and are using one to block, they are an okay reaction to an attack if you pair that with some offensive action on your part.
- Reactions don't use stamina. Counter attacking with a decent weapon means you get to strike without expending energy. Waiting a turn and then counter-attacking with a weapon that has a better attack bonus is a way to recover energy during combat. The obvious drawback here is that the combat is taking place on your opponents terms however, and while they are fatiguing themselves don't count on running down their energy this way if that is your goal. This often works in your flavor if your opponent has a bad weapon verses your good weapon, like a spear verses a knife or an axe.
- Skill counts for a lot when it comes to weapon usage, and in particular this is why masterwork weapons are often better than the raw numbers might suggest. By the numbers, a Kaumolais Spear should be the best weapon in the game before factoring in the need for a shield, but you will probably never find a masterwork version unless your character gets lucky and starts with one. The Kaumolaiset are a very poor people, and rarely have anything for sale, let alone high end weapons. The Driikiläiset on the other hand tend to be very well off, so they often have more masterworks than anybody else. Finding a masterwork sword is doable, and with persistence, a masterwork battleaxe. Also, fighting with a weapon that you have no (or bad) skill in will put you at a significant disadvantage, regardless of the attack and defence values of the weapons and involved.
- There is no way to predict the skill of your opponent has with the weapon they are using. However there are parameters that NPC skills will spawn within. However Njerpez warriors are notable for having good swordsmanship, so Njerpez with swords are far more dangerous than Njerpez without swords. Very few people are bad with spear as well, so units with spears are also very dangerous. Not many people know how to use a shield effectively, but Njerpez have no penalty in them, so again, beware of units with shields.
- Most weapons deal damage based on your characters strength stat. Arrows shot from a bow, and most weapons thrown or swung deal damage based on your strength. Knives and arrows shot from crossbows and heavy crossbows are an exception to this and deal damage with a formula that excludes the effects of your strength attribute. High strength characters should avoid using these weapons, while really low strength characters should use them more. Low strength characters should only do what is needed to escape combat however, as crossbows take to long to use more than once, and knives are really bad for combat in general. In theory, attacking sleeping units, or attacking from behind would be the application for knives. In practice units will wake up no matter how good your stealth is, and units should only flee from you or be unconscious if you've made them do so (as in, you will most likely be wielding a better weapon anyway...).
- Bonuses from sneak attacks only come from the unit being unconscious or facing away from you. Being hidden is not enough. The attack dialogue is obvious when this happen as it's considered a deathblow and the game will tell you this explicitly and offer you a choice option on where to strike that will guarantee a hit.
- Don't bother punching anything. Unarmed attacks have no attack or defence bonuses, and deal damage as though the weapon does 0 blunt + a small bonus amount. Unarmed attacks can often be completely negated by regular clothing, and are strength dependant to boot. You will also do more damage to the hide of an animal if you take it down with unarmed attacks as it will take more injuries from your attacks than from any other weapon. Unarmed attacks go into their own separate skill. Kicking doesn't even give you a better chance to attack someones legs. The only good thing about unarmed combat is that it's oddly satisfying to kick a fox that you captured in your paw-board trap, as revenge for stealing your fish. Am I the only one?
- Blows to the arm are likely to cause your opponent to drop their weapon. Blows to the leg are likely to knock them down. Damage to their legs will also hamper their movement speed, which helps you out maneuver them. You also have a big advantage over opponents who can't keep up with you. In particular, characters with a higher speed stat will do better than characters with a low speed stat as you will often be able to keep your opponent at a distance prevent them from attacking you directly. Sometimes, you can kill your opponent from a distance without them ever getting the opportunity to attack you even once. This isn't as big of an advantage if they have arrows and a bow however.
- Hostile NPC's will pickup rocks and stones along their way to attacking you as well as other weapons dropped along the way. The wont encumber themselves to the point of not being able to move, and they are usually good about not wasting too much time doing this, but this is another reason being faster than your opponent is a huge advantage, as they will keep picking up garbage along their way to you.
- Different ranged weapons have different optimal ranges. Primitive and shortbows are better at close range, i.e. 10 tiles ish. Where as hunting bows are better at 15, and longbows are better at 20 or so. Not sure where the northern bow is good at. Crossbows seem to be better between a range of 5 to 15 tiles, although you will probably only get 1 shot off at most. Crossbows are more accurate than regular bows, given an equal level of mastery. I beleive fine quality added to either the ranged weapon or the ammunition adds +1 impact (additional damage), and masterwork quality adds +1 impact and 10% to your ranged skill. I don't know if multiple bonuses stack, and if they do, how they would stack.
- Throwing weapons, basically Javelins, Northern Spears, and Throwing Axes all seem to have an optimal tile range of 4 - 8 tiles or so. Same rules for quality here apply to ammunition.
- I don't know what range is optimal for rocks, but it's better than stones, and weapons that probably aren't supposed to be thrown like swords.
- Anything in the path between you and your target is an obstacle. This includes animals leashed to you. You can't shoot over your small leashed dog. You can shoot over the fence, or the shutters in a building however.
- Weather you are still at range or in melee combat, it's important to use "F3" to look at what your opponent is wearing and wielding. Shooting or swinging at a part that has metalic armour is a bad idea, unless you have no better choice. Regardless of what weapon you are using, it's often better to attack parts of the body that have inadequate protection as hit's to those areas will do more damage. While all clothing provides some protection, the armor to watch out for is fur, leather, lamellar(?), chainmail, and then iron plate. If fur types get added to NPC gear, bear fur armor protects more than leather, unless I'm mistaken. Fur also seems to protect more in general due to blocking more blunt, but that's just from my personal experience.
- Shooting at somebody wielding a shield is often a bad idea, especially if they are wielding it at CENTER, because this protects that person from ranged attacks that would hit anywhere from neck to knees, which is usually where your shots will end up. HIGH protects the head, at the expense of leaving the lower body exposed.
- Different weapons are better for combat than others due to their attack bonuses. In particular, weapons in the spear class are usually better for attacking than most other weapons, with the exception of the Northern Spear, Javelin, and Small Trident, as those are worse for direct melee combat than normal, and the Battleaxe, Battle-sword, Bastard-sword, and Maul due to having either an attack bonus of 4 or 5. All of the weapons with good attack bonuses are two handed and suffer from penalties when the other hand is not free. Of these, the Bastard-Sword and Trident only suffer a 10% penalty, and the Battle-Axe only suffers a 15% penalty when paired with a shield.
- No weapon is good at blocking. The Trident, and the two staves (the regular craftable staff and the hard staff) are okay at blocking attacks. Every other weapon is bad for blocking attacks and you probably shouldn't bother. If you are going to block attacks, you want a Roundshield, as it has the best blocking properties, and is relitively cheap to replace which is important because blocking weapons will put wear on your equipment, as is currently the only thing to put wear and tear on your weapons and shields from what I can see. Also, no weapon can block arrows or other projectiles, only shields can do this. The reason you block is to try to disarm your opponent. If you don't have good shield skill (if you are using a roundshield) or good spear skill (using staves or trident), than this is a bad idea, as you will probably take several hits before you disarm your opponent and they often have a backup weapon anyway. You also arn't doing any damage to them directly while blocking their weapons. Animals are already disarmed in the traditional sense and cannot be made less dangers by merely blocking them. However if you have invested points into shield and are using one to block, they are an okay reaction to an attack if you pair that with some offensive action on your part.
- Reactions don't use stamina. Counter attacking with a decent weapon means you get to strike without expending energy. Waiting a turn and then counter-attacking with a weapon that has a better attack bonus is a way to recover energy during combat. The obvious drawback here is that the combat is taking place on your opponents terms however, and while they are fatiguing themselves don't count on running down their energy this way if that is your goal. This often works in your flavor if your opponent has a bad weapon verses your good weapon, like a spear verses a knife or an axe.
- Skill counts for a lot when it comes to weapon usage, and in particular this is why masterwork weapons are often better than the raw numbers might suggest. By the numbers, a Kaumolais Spear should be the best weapon in the game before factoring in the need for a shield, but you will probably never find a masterwork version unless your character gets lucky and starts with one. The Kaumolaiset are a very poor people, and rarely have anything for sale, let alone high end weapons. The Driikiläiset on the other hand tend to be very well off, so they often have more masterworks than anybody else. Finding a masterwork sword is doable, and with persistence, a masterwork battleaxe. Also, fighting with a weapon that you have no (or bad) skill in will put you at a significant disadvantage, regardless of the attack and defence values of the weapons and involved.
- There is no way to predict the skill of your opponent has with the weapon they are using. However there are parameters that NPC skills will spawn within. However Njerpez warriors are notable for having good swordsmanship, so Njerpez with swords are far more dangerous than Njerpez without swords. Very few people are bad with spear as well, so units with spears are also very dangerous. Not many people know how to use a shield effectively, but Njerpez have no penalty in them, so again, beware of units with shields.
- Most weapons deal damage based on your characters strength stat. Arrows shot from a bow, and most weapons thrown or swung deal damage based on your strength. Knives and arrows shot from crossbows and heavy crossbows are an exception to this and deal damage with a formula that excludes the effects of your strength attribute. High strength characters should avoid using these weapons, while really low strength characters should use them more. Low strength characters should only do what is needed to escape combat however, as crossbows take to long to use more than once, and knives are really bad for combat in general. In theory, attacking sleeping units, or attacking from behind would be the application for knives. In practice units will wake up no matter how good your stealth is, and units should only flee from you or be unconscious if you've made them do so (as in, you will most likely be wielding a better weapon anyway...).
- Bonuses from sneak attacks only come from the unit being unconscious or facing away from you. Being hidden is not enough. The attack dialogue is obvious when this happen as it's considered a deathblow and the game will tell you this explicitly and offer you a choice option on where to strike that will guarantee a hit.
- Don't bother punching anything. Unarmed attacks have no attack or defence bonuses, and deal damage as though the weapon does 0 blunt + a small bonus amount. Unarmed attacks can often be completely negated by regular clothing, and are strength dependant to boot. You will also do more damage to the hide of an animal if you take it down with unarmed attacks as it will take more injuries from your attacks than from any other weapon. Unarmed attacks go into their own separate skill. Kicking doesn't even give you a better chance to attack someones legs. The only good thing about unarmed combat is that it's oddly satisfying to kick a fox that you captured in your paw-board trap, as revenge for stealing your fish. Am I the only one?
- Blows to the arm are likely to cause your opponent to drop their weapon. Blows to the leg are likely to knock them down. Damage to their legs will also hamper their movement speed, which helps you out maneuver them. You also have a big advantage over opponents who can't keep up with you. In particular, characters with a higher speed stat will do better than characters with a low speed stat as you will often be able to keep your opponent at a distance prevent them from attacking you directly. Sometimes, you can kill your opponent from a distance without them ever getting the opportunity to attack you even once. This isn't as big of an advantage if they have arrows and a bow however.
- Hostile NPC's will pickup rocks and stones along their way to attacking you as well as other weapons dropped along the way. The wont encumber themselves to the point of not being able to move, and they are usually good about not wasting too much time doing this, but this is another reason being faster than your opponent is a huge advantage, as they will keep picking up garbage along their way to you.
53
Solved'n'fixed bug reports / [3.60 beta-hotfix 2] Re: Cord length overflow
« on: September 21, 2019, 10:40:51 PM »
To add to this issue, every time you cut a length of cord off, the shorter piece has the exact same weight as the original piece of cord. If you join these 2 pieces of cord back together, then you combine the weight of both, which doubles the weight of the cord. You should be able to replicate this with any character that has some cloths you can tear a cord off of.
1. Tear a cord off of your cloths, or something else that counts as cloth. You should have a 15 ft cord that weighs 0.5 lbs
2. Shorten the cord by 1 ft. You should then have a 14 ft cord that weighs 0.5 lbs, and a 1 ft cord that weighs 0.5 lbs.
3. Join 1 cord to the other, you will now have a 15 ft cord that weighs 1 lbs.
4. Shorten the cord by 1 ft. You should then have a 14 cord that weighs 1lbs, and a 1 ft cord that weighs 1lbs.
5. Join 1 cord to the other, you will now have a 15 ft cord that weighs 2 lbs. - Thus demonstrating that the shorter piece of cord copies the weight of the cord that it was removed from.
In practice, this results in cords that are unusually heavy after only a few adjustments to the cordage you use. Perhaps cord length should determine weight somehow, instead of just having a static value that the game is supposed to trust based on the honor system? I also don't understand the need for a durability bar for cord, since it only seems to drop when the weight decreases, and not based on how the cord is used.
1. Tear a cord off of your cloths, or something else that counts as cloth. You should have a 15 ft cord that weighs 0.5 lbs
2. Shorten the cord by 1 ft. You should then have a 14 ft cord that weighs 0.5 lbs, and a 1 ft cord that weighs 0.5 lbs.
3. Join 1 cord to the other, you will now have a 15 ft cord that weighs 1 lbs.
4. Shorten the cord by 1 ft. You should then have a 14 cord that weighs 1lbs, and a 1 ft cord that weighs 1lbs.
5. Join 1 cord to the other, you will now have a 15 ft cord that weighs 2 lbs. - Thus demonstrating that the shorter piece of cord copies the weight of the cord that it was removed from.
In practice, this results in cords that are unusually heavy after only a few adjustments to the cordage you use. Perhaps cord length should determine weight somehow, instead of just having a static value that the game is supposed to trust based on the honor system? I also don't understand the need for a durability bar for cord, since it only seems to drop when the weight decreases, and not based on how the cord is used.
54
Solved'n'fixed bug reports / Re: [3.60 beta-hotfix 2] cord amounts; Selecting all items to pick up with + key
« on: September 20, 2019, 10:45:32 PM »
I can confirm. I combined a set of cords to be 150 feet before using them to dry with. The result after drying, is that I get back cords that are 150 feet in length, and then 125 feet, and then 100 feet, and so on.
I have attached a low quality screenshot of the bug. I can send a save file upon request.
I have attached a low quality screenshot of the bug. I can send a save file upon request.
55
Solved'n'fixed bug reports / [Fixed - persists in 3.60 beta-hotfix 2] Cord length overflow
« on: September 20, 2019, 03:49:32 AM »
I managed to amass a small amount of cord, that I joined together in a small ball. I eventually built it up to 2 strings of cord. 1 was 65 feet, and the other was 255 feet. When I joined them together, I got a 10 lb string of cord that was 39 feet long. I then split it off into 5 feet chunks and those 5 feet chunks are all 10 lbs. I will email the save file too you.
56
Bug reports / Re: [3.60 beta-hotfix 2] lighting villager's lumber on fire in the fireplace
« on: September 20, 2019, 12:14:00 AM »
I think part of this is that villagers mind if you push things, since you can push objects onto walls this way (although they can still pick up objects off the walls if they want too, so IDK).
57
Gameplay questions / Re: stealing questions
« on: September 18, 2019, 11:05:45 PM »
If the goods are not in a house, then they will pick them up when they see them.
If you travel via punt, then don't turn your back to them or you'll get arrows in your back. They will usually get suspicious before you get to the waters edge as well, so if you are doing it this way, try to put the goods in a building close to the waters edge so they don't take them out of it.
If you travel via punt, then don't turn your back to them or you'll get arrows in your back. They will usually get suspicious before you get to the waters edge as well, so if you are doing it this way, try to put the goods in a building close to the waters edge so they don't take them out of it.
58
General Discussion / Re: Board Inflation
« on: September 12, 2019, 02:56:04 PM »
I take it the exploit is that you can sell them paw board traps in addition to regular boards?
59
Gameplay questions / Re: What are the most valuable crafted items?
« on: August 23, 2019, 06:09:09 PM »
A shortbow is still worth a ton. 5 arrows or so. It takes forever to make though.
60
Gameplay questions / Re: What are the most valuable crafted items?
« on: August 21, 2019, 12:17:19 AM »
Superior lynx fur?