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Messages - Matti-patti

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46
Suggestions / Re: Dog colours
« on: December 12, 2021, 03:02:43 PM »
On closely related topic: I'd like to have a command to change the color of my dogs, so I don't have to search pointlessly for different color variants.

47
Gameplay questions / Re: Question about amour coverage
« on: December 12, 2021, 02:52:57 PM »
As far as I know, a point of armor that's off the graphical scale of the armor coverage screen is just as effective as point of armor within it. The game's damage system seems to be weapon damage value (generally 4-7) + 1-2 d6 (depending on relative success of rolls) with extra + 1d6 when hitting counterattacking target. The maximum of the armor screen [8] is really quite minimal, I tend to go for 10-14 points or so (though some locations such as skull are easy to make immune to damage).

And similarly, you'll want more clothing than just what the graphical scale shows for winter.

48
PC height is given incorrectly when using metric units. After conversion it's 15-20cm taller than what is given in imperial units. Example from test case: imperial height 79 inches (200,66cm) vs. stated metric height 219cm. Using 3.71 Steam version, tested on both Win 7 and Win 10 systems. Worth noting the conversion was working fine in 3.63 and earlier and when importing a character from that version to 3.71 the imperial units were the ones that remained correct.

49
Suggestions / Re: vitamins
« on: August 01, 2021, 11:34:25 AM »
I'd like to see scurvy represented some day at least as it's historically significant ailment that beyond sailors also plagued settlers. In practice though, I already gather ton of nettle and sorrel every autumn for use with green soup and as stew herb and buy some turnips from villagers so I can pretend my character is having something like a balanced diet.

50
General Discussion / Re: Real life names for mushrooms?
« on: August 01, 2021, 11:12:47 AM »
The wiki lists the names for the herbs and the berries and crops are self explanatory so I just need to figure out what the mushrooms are.

Just note that the Wiki while seemingly generally correct on those accounts does make at least one mistake. Clayweed is almost certainly Chenopodium album aka Jauhosavikka or Saviruoho (=Clayweed), not Clotsfoot.

As far as mushrooms go, I had assigned yellowcoat as keltavahvero or chanterelle and on basis of that I thought browncoat would be suppilovahvero, but apparently not. It does make sense if the mushrooms are more loosely based on Finnish mushrooms, yellow finger for one has so early harvest time it can't be any regular Finnish mushroom.

51
IIRC there is a phrasing somewhere that sleeping on a bunk makes you more likely to wake up vigorous

meaning higher chance of getting the best sleep

though you could just spend more time to sleep elsewhere

I don't think I have ever woken non-vigorous unless interrupted in some manner.

52
I think the most important things for dealing with accidental encounters with wolves are:

1) Always check your six (with the 180 degree turn).
2) When wolf makes sneak attack on you they attack your neck. Always wear all the neck armor you have in any situation you think you might run into wolf in.
3) Don't use pets aside dogs, the rest aggro wolves unerringly. Three to four big or regular dogs make for reasonable team of haulers.

When actually going to hunt wolves:

1) Armor up. And definitely at least mail cowl, cloth cowl (preferably two) and fur hood. Aside that, try to get at least circa 10 tear resistance in every other body part, preferably more.
2) Leave unessential items (water, food, tool axes etc.) elsewhere since you'll be more encumbered than during your typical hunt and wolves are more flighty than bears so you'll end up chasing them more.
3) Patience, my strategy at least is to bring their mobility down with damage and then chase them. Unlike with elks and reindeer I won't be ever bringing one down unless I got it cripple or limp from damage first before chasing it breathless.
4) Always check your six. Even when your are chasing a fleeing wolf down and you think you might be well away from rest of the pack, check your rear from time to time.
5) Consider leaving your dogs elsewhere (tied to a tree on nearby marked tile for example) when going to hunt. They are all but useless at protecting your ass and when they get aggroed they'll just run themselves breathless in the leash. A breathless dog is just giving a fresh wolf opportunity for easy kill.
6) You normally should avoid conifer forests and spruce mires when hunting, but with wolves you'll want to simply stay away as the low visibility can lead to nasty surprises.
7) Don't process the carcass on site of the kill. Either pick it up and carry it elsewhere or go fetch your dogs (a big dog is useful here) and pack it on them. Not a bad idea to ignore the big wolves since they are more of a hassle to carry. Or go kill them last once you have taken down rest of the pack.

Wolf hunting is bit different than regular hunting so it's nice change of pace and I don't think it's any more dangerous than bear hunting if you are careful. I never specifically trap wolves, so for me it's either active hunting or one walking into my lynx/wolverine traps. Too bad the otherwise decently valuable hides have habit of getting bit worn in the process, especially since I don't feel like pulling punches (or axe blows) with them.

EDIT: I lost a few dogs clearing the villages when they got injured and ran away.  I have also lost dogs hunting, but mostly they seem to find their way home eventually.

I once nearly lost a dog simply because it decided to go to sleep in middle of a chase. Luckily once I noticed this I was able to backtrack the tracks of the animal I was chasing (since my other dogs and PC didn't leave any) and find the sleeping dog. Had to abort the hunt though.

53
General Discussion / Re: Meteor strike?
« on: June 05, 2021, 02:38:57 PM »
The light effects (and rain, it's horrid to look for tracks in rain) are surprisingly atmospheric and functional in URW

54
Gameplay questions / Re: The dog did not protect my sheep
« on: June 05, 2021, 02:23:34 PM »
Even if the Vikings may have been visiting the Americas by the end of the UrW timeline, they probably didn't bring any dogs back. Also, you don't have to go to the new world to find usage of dogs specifically bred for herding/livestock guarding, but the UrW dog seems to be a hunting dog breed, not a herding one.

All the livestock guard dogs used in US are of European or West Asian origin, though from the Mediterranean world (Portugal, Spain, France, Italy, the Balkans and Turkey) rather than the north. It does seem to be a very specific working dog type that is difficult to maintain a breed for. Apparently some breeds that were at some point specialized for it simply don't work at it anymore. Indeed it seems like the study mentioned in that article has since concluded and the breeds it found to be best were all not very established recent imports to US. And the breeds that are used to corral the herds and the breeds that are used to kick wolves around are distinct ones and don't work at each others' jobs.

How applicable it is to iron age Sami I don't know. All the dog breeds today associated with Sami seem to be rather modestly sized animals, more like 30 kg than the 50 kg + (wolf sized) that the Mediterranean guard dog breeds are. And Sami don't ultimately have very long history as herdsmen, so it might be reasonable to assume they never developed as sophisticated breeds as the Mediterraneans who had millennia to go at this stuff. But they are the only peoples in URW that I'd expect to have breeds of that sort.

55
Gameplay questions / Re: The dog did not protect my sheep
« on: June 04, 2021, 09:35:49 PM »
A decent article on livestock guardian dogs I found and wanted to share: https://yellowstonevalleywoman.com/the-rise-of-livestock-guardian-dogs/

Maybe some born and bred herd dogs from the northern tribes some day?

56
Gameplay questions / Re: Angry Water Spirits
« on: May 25, 2021, 10:45:05 AM »
I always sacrifice fish right after I have picked up my catches and still on the raft. Seems to work every time and keeps the waterfolk happy. I think cooked fish might always go to forest spirits instead.

57
To be fair I think this applies to most things you do with the companions, they are rather underpaid. You take a guy with you to hunt a bear and let him melee tank it while you shoot arrows. He then helps to skin and butcher the animal and haul it all back to your settlement, where he possibly helps with the processing as well. What does he want for that? He's cool if you roast 5%-10% (depending on the size of the animal) of the meat cuts to him. Maybe if your hunting had been unsuccessful he should be cool with just food to eat and bit extra as reward.

Never seen them sleep (unlike with domestic animals), but I have never seen them chop/log through the night either. In my experience once you order them to do so they'll keep at it for maybe 3-4 hours, then they go on standby again.

58
Gameplay questions / Re: What exactly do the attributes affect?
« on: May 12, 2021, 06:48:11 AM »
Mostly they affect your initial skills and your aptitude for skills (you get 1-3 stars, I believe that just makes it level faster). But some of them have major effects beyond that. Notably speed affects your walking/skiing and running speed, while endurance reduces the penalty you get for carrying stuff and makes you more resistant to fatigue. Few of them (like will) affect how well you can resist falling asleep or passing out from pain. And I have heard eyesight and hearing make your more likely to spot or hear things.

Strength doesn't, perhaps surprisingly, have any effect on damage beyond making you better with weapons that use strength. It doesn't have anything to do with how much you can carry either. Your maximum carrying capacity is based on your weight, while the penalty you get for carrying things depends on endurance.

59
Not bugs / Re: Bug or insane lynx and lazy dog?
« on: May 09, 2021, 05:48:55 PM »
Almost slightly off-topic, but I'll comment with a real life story which took place near my home couple of months ago;

It was dark night, and one of my neighbours was driving home, about 80km/h speed on a quiet countryside road. Then, before he could react he saw sudden movement and the car went *THUMP* - being one of the local hunters with a lot of experience in identifying wildlife the driver could tell that it was a lynx crossing the road, got hit by the car. The driver thought it must have been an instant kill, or then the lynx was left suffering in the ditch next to the road. So he went to investigate. At that point I happened to pass by, stopped to see what is going on, and joined the search. We could not find a single hint of the lynx - surprisingly enough, it seemed that it didn't get injured that bad, and was able to retreat into the dark woods. So the neighbour alarmed the local hunting group.

After an hour the hunters had spread around, combing the forest looking for tracks. Also, a skilled dog was sent to track the lynx. After a while the hunters heard the alarm bark of the dog - and the sound was moving, so apparently the lynx was on the move and the dog was chasing it. Before the hunters could reach the location of the sounds they noticed that the sounds weren't moving. So maybe the lynx had collapsed because of injuries? The dog kept on barking, the hunters kept on approaching, and then suddenly they met the dog, who was fleeing in panic. The hunters followed the tracks for a while and found a place where the paw prints on the snow told a clear story; the lynx had been fighting with the dog, and the dog chose to flee - which seems like the most reasonable decision; the dog only has teeth, but the sharp claws of the fierce feline certainly are something to be afraid of.

The morale of the story; lynx are not to be messed with. It is realistic to assume that if a dog goes 1:1 fight with a lynx, the likely outcome is the dog either fleeing or getting seriously injured.

(I think the contemporary hunting dogs are trained to chase a lynx, hoping the lynx climbs a tree and stays there, so that the dog can keep it on hold and bark until the human companions arrive to relieve the situation.)

I think it depends on dog breed, training and also heavily on the situation. Put a shepherd's dog in situation where he feels he must defend his pack (of sheep or whatever) and he'll go against predators much bigger and scarier than a lynx and is prepared to die defending his pack. At that point the wild animal will do a quick cost-effectiveness analysis and will probably figure it's not worth the effort.

60
Gameplay questions / Re: Turnip for what?
« on: May 09, 2021, 09:08:23 AM »
Small dead falls are good for polecat, ermine, marten, badger as well as both types of foxes.
Oddly enough, I often get arctic foxes with light lever traps baited with crow berries, but for some reason I can’t get ermine with LLT, even baited with meat or fat. LLT will catch polecats, albeit infrequently.

I'm quite sure I have gotten an ermine with LLT, probably multiple times. In fact, I'm somewhat confident I have gotten every mustelid except the glutton in LLT. The arctic foxes presumably just walk in the lever traps, they don't actually eat the bait and hence are not attracted by it? I infrequently get small foxes of both types in my unbaited lever trap lines.

I'm surprised small deadfalls allows ermines etc. to even walk into them. Those animals are squirrel sized, if they let them to walk into them then small deadfalls would probably have no minimum size range at all. I don't believe I have personally gotten anything smaller than hare or fox in small deadfall and assumed they had some kind minimum size.

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