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Messages - PALU

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736
Gameplay questions / Re: Do Single-Tile Islands Generate Animals?
« on: August 12, 2017, 11:34:30 AM »
I've never seen any purely land based animals swim, unless you call trying to get out of holes in the ice swimming. An easy UrW hunting technique is to exhaust hunt the prey by having it run back and forth along the waterline, and I've never seen them flee into the (open) water. Also, I've had elks spawn inside my trap fence (circling a lake) more than once (tracks on the inside, but none on the outside).

737
Gameplay questions / Re: Traps - what am i doing wrong?
« on: August 11, 2017, 03:17:26 PM »
If you have a cellar, keep all meat not in the current processing batch in the cellar while roasting. If you haven't got one, use Saiko Kila's advice.
There's no need to tie up the dog while roasting in my experience, as dogs bark when hungry and most of the time give you some time to feed them before they help themselves (might be dependent on dog personality). Also the loss isn't great (I haven't been able to feed dogs more than 3 cuts, but I don't starve them).
The reason a sauna might need priming while a common room doesn't might be because the common room is heated regularly, while the sauna might not be.
When the weather is suitable for drying meat I'd definitely recommend building a shelter, as it can be used as the "wall" for drying, unless you're just starting out and have just bagged your first major kill, in which case I'd roast the meat and sell it for tools. That also saves you the hassle of trekking to a village.

738
Unfortunately, enemies don't try to flank you: flanking only happens by accident as a result of the tiles in front of you being occupied by other enemies (or other obstacles).
And yes, it's possible to hit shield wielding enemies with arrows even in protected locations (and, conversely, arrows aimed at the exposed parts are frequently blocked).

739
Not seeing the attacker removes your defense,  so you can't dodge or block, but they can still miss (and do so often when they are exhausted). I can't comment on shields, though.

Theft from cellars by animals is an insignificant problem: don't bother about it (you can place a snare or fox paw board on top of the cellar if you have a particular creature pestering you).
I don't think birds can get in through a hole in the roof, as they're blocked by the walls (and they fly high, out of reach, indoors). A cellar (or group of cellars) surrounded by walls (with a door) should make the cellar theft proof (provided you keep the door shut), but I wouldn't bother both because it's not worth the trouble, and because it's immersion breaking.
I don't know about the temperature effects on a hole in the ceiling. My characters never heat their houses and never close the door, and it works out fine anyway (but there's no hole in the ceiling). It's simply too much hassle to heat the cabin and then constantly shift the clothing: it's enough of a bother to shift the clothing to adapt to the outdoor temperature. I've noted that the temperature is slightly higher indoors than outdoors even without heating, though.

740
Gameplay questions / Re: How to hunt seals?
« on: August 10, 2017, 09:46:04 AM »
Nope. I've discovered seals on the zoomed out map while on transit (so I haven't ever been on the zoomed in map anywhere nearby).

741
Gameplay questions / Re: How to hunt seals?
« on: August 09, 2017, 12:32:07 PM »
Seals are present all along the coast. I've found them in Islander territory, for instance (which is where I've caught all of my seals [with isn't a large count...]), and I think I saw one in Njerp territory as well.

742
Gameplay questions / Re: Traps - what am i doing wrong?
« on: August 09, 2017, 12:29:04 PM »
Well, baiting a trap with desirable food will increase the likelihood of trapping the target animal. Without either bait or a fence an animal will walk into your traps only by chance AND that only if their fishiness detectors are failing.

If a trap hasn't been triggered I generally won't tear them down. The exception to that is when the skill has increased significantly so I want to try to replace the trap with a higher quality one (and I've only done that with snares where I've produced higher quality snares than the ones currently used).

743
Gameplay questions / Re: Traps - what am i doing wrong?
« on: August 08, 2017, 08:44:22 PM »
If you haven't got a sauna yet and it's too warm for drying, I'd roast the meat and sell it in a village. If you've got a cellar, the meat should be stored there at all times you're not using it, as it lasts a bit longer there.

I believe roasted meat is more valuable than raw (additional labor has put into it, so it's ready to eat). In addition to that there are a couple of additional reasons:
- Roasted meat starts the decay cycle afresh, provided they where roasted when fresh, which means it will last a few days longer.
- Roasting the meat provides cooking training, which is always good. If your skill is extremely poor so what you cook is almost unfit for eating, the most valuable use of the food is usually to improve the cooking skill so you reliably get decent quality food (the lowest quality of food can't be sold: it can still be eaten and provides some reduced nutrition, though).
- You typically need to extend the shelf life of your meat by roasting it as killing a stag implies butchering and skinning it, which takes a fair while, plus preparing at least the first stage of the skin. All these lengthy activities will probably require you to sleep. If you haul the raw meat to village at that time there's a decent risk some or all of it goes bad on the way. (From a more gamey perspective, roasting the meat will split it into several groups based on quality and staleness, so an unlucky roll won't cause you to lose all of it).

744
Gameplay questions / Re: Traps - what am i doing wrong?
« on: August 08, 2017, 09:20:07 AM »
As Privateer said, large game traps more or less require either bait or trap fences (or both).
There seems to be some "push" factor on traps that makes animals weary of them (I think the trapping skill and die roll affects this), and this can keep them from taking the bait in baited traps. A trap fence makes it impossible (with a reasonable effort) to go around the trap, so animals that wish to go to the other side of the fence (try to) pass over the trap, even if it's somewhat fishy (but they can still balk at it).

For small game traps I tend to place them in arrays, in particular in between trees, to create the same kind of lines that have to be crossed despite some reluctance.

745
Gameplay questions / Re: Shaman won't heal me
« on: August 07, 2017, 12:32:11 AM »
Clothing can be gotten from trading, hides, killed bandits/njerps, and crafting using mods adding that functionality (and the source materials, i.e. wool or plant materials that can be spun). My characters generally keep the best njerp stuff for themselves and make everything else into bandages (using the healing skill daily on the wounds gotten by a failed bandit encounter can use up a decent pile of bandages).

746
Gameplay questions / Re: Shaman won't heal me
« on: August 06, 2017, 07:16:03 PM »
Privateer posted while I typed, so there's overlap...

There are at least two reputation levels: one with the village, and one with individuals. Apparently you've managed to get on their really bad side (I've never been worse than Kaumolais man, which, in my case, seemed worse than frequent guest). Like you, I have been able to improve a poor village reputation (setting a bird trap on what happened to be their pasture), but not the reputation with the character who refused to speak with my character.
I'd suggest going to a different village, and declare this one more or less dud for the time being. It can also be noted that UrW healing isn't magic, so the only effect you'd get from the healer's attention is a slightly faster recovery.
As far as I understand, an injury can have a maximum penalty of 25, and it takes roughly one day to reduce the penalty by one step. With first rate care, you might get completely healed after 20 days, but with your own skills it would probably be around 25 (I guess some stats (endurance?) might come into play as well. If you're not treating the wounds at all, e.g. because you don't have any bandages, and don't want to risk bleeding to death because of opening wounds when trying, I guess recovery takes longer (add 5 days at a guess). Also note that functionality lost because of injury is regained before the injury is completely healed (I don't remember when, probably at 5 or 10).
You should also know that injury treatment can be performed daily, so using the shaman would mean daily visits to the village.
If I was in your shoes, I'd do things that do not require standing (various kinds of crafting [including bandages...], for instance), and keep close to the homestead. The final hide treatment stage requires standing, so any hides you get should either be discarded or preserved for later processing.

If you want to try to regain the favor of the shaman I would try to give him herbs (note that I've never tried it) using the "I have something for you" option. You might try other gifts as well. If you do, please report back on the results, as it would be useful knowledge.

747
Gameplay questions / Re: How to hunt seals?
« on: August 05, 2017, 09:34:49 AM »
Expert? Definitely not... Anyway:
- I've used bear traps with some success. Observe where they tend to be and place a trap there. It's especially good if there's only a narrow access to the sea so they don't have too many tiles to chose from when passing.
- Javelin/Arrow hunting: Very difficult, as they dive when scared and can take a lot of damage before they die. I've had at least one case where I've finally hurt one through repeated attacks to probably kill it on the next hit, only to find it had healed up a bit the next time I found it.
- Zoom exploiting: If you zoom out close to the water you'll appear there when zooming in on that tile later. This can be used both to "sneak" up on seals so you're close enough to have some chance to hit them when launching your (prepared) attack. Even more exploity is to have the zoom in location in a place that frequently lies in between the sea and where they sun bath (or whatever they do) on land.

The trap method is the only one I'd say is worthwhile, though.

748
Suggestions / Re: Removing old tracks
« on: August 03, 2017, 09:31:39 PM »
No. There's currently no support for obscuring/removing tracks. And I'd guess remove functionality would be as tedious and time consuming to use as it would in real life, addressing one tile at a time.

749
Gameplay questions / Re: Need help with a certain character build
« on: August 03, 2017, 04:06:07 PM »
Yes, my characters rely on birds mainly while chasing big game. In a few cases a grumbling belly has been somewhat satisfied by berries, but in most cases I there aren't any available when I start. You can actually go for a fair while without food or only the occasional piece of meat, but the only characters who've been starving significantly have been escaped slaves on small islands.

750
Gameplay questions / Re: Foreign traders, finding them.
« on: August 03, 2017, 09:09:09 AM »
Don't bother about it. Traders will show up eventually (provided you move outside your homestead: I guess a character spending the time fishing and working on the homestead never zooming out onto the overworld map will have a hard time encountering them).

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