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Messages - Matti-patti

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Gameplay questions / Re: Land North of Njerpez??
« on: January 13, 2022, 02:25:59 PM »
That point about predators is interesting. I normally tend to set my cabin around or in the Koivulais lands as it's in central location, but in current game I'm living in Kaumo and I'm having decent success trapping gluttons, wolves and lynxes. Maybe 1.5-2 animals per big deadfall trap in the first 6 months of the game or so? Granted I have not previously done dedicated trapping with big deadfalls, so I don't known if that's really better than elsewhere.

The amount of bears I have seen seems pretty usual though, and I haven't actually bothered to hunt any.

Bug reports / Re: Punts on Dogs (or other pack animals)
« on: December 23, 2021, 11:51:35 PM »
Dog carrying a punt makes about as much sense as player character somehow stowing the same (presumably 2-3 meter long) watercraft into his bag of holding and then running through thick spruce forest while wielding a bow and arrow. Or a bull carrying a 5 meter wooden log.

The game's stowage system is rudimentary, but until (if ever) we get a detailed one featuring frames, cordage, leather straps, bags etc. I don't see reason to touch it. In more detailed system, I suppose the punt could be tied to some kind of light wooden frame secured on the animal/player and is being dragged behind the animal/character.

General Discussion / Re: help with hunting and trapping
« on: December 13, 2021, 05:10:08 PM »
Nettle cloak, linen undershirt, fur hood, fur mittens, fur footwear and mail coif is 13,7 pounds, needing 137 pound character to wear with encumbrance. That's quite light, though small northerners can be below that. This is in practice pretty typical outfit for me for my normal activities (well, ideally I'd like to throw linen tunic there as well).

General Discussion / Re: help with hunting and trapping
« on: December 13, 2021, 04:24:59 PM »
If you hunt naked (or nearly so) you can afford to run a lot more than if you try to protect yourself against counter attacks when hunting (getting gored or kicked by an elk while unprotected is NOT fun).
While you can mostly avoid triggering attacks from herbivores (and they rarely hit when the animal is exhausted), that isn't the case with animals such as boars, badgers, gluttons, etc.
Also, running into a pack of wolves or encountering a Njerp while near naked is risky business.

There is no reason to go naked as typically your character can support something in the region of 15-20 pounds of encumbrance free clothing. I would recommend having mail coif and bear fur hood on at all times, with enough clothing/leather/furs to cover rest of the body in at least single layer of protection.

The occasional herbivore kicks are easily avoided as you say, and the same can be said of lynxes and badgers. You normally come in close quarters with these animals only once they are already breathless. If you want to be safe, fire a single arrow at them from one tile away, that usually drops them unconscious if they are breathless. I almost never actively hunt gluttons since they are fast and have high endurance. Njerps are more rare these days. Wolfs can be dangerous, but just as long as you don't have a herbivore for pack animal you can usually disengage. The bear fur hood and mail coifs are there as assurance if one bites your back (which always attacks neck, even when suboptimal).

General Discussion / Re: help with hunting and trapping
« on: December 12, 2021, 05:34:59 PM »
I'd recommend starting a hunting newbie character in the Kuikka territory (and Kuikka is a good culture pick overall). There tend to be a lot of game, as well as lots of hills and mountains to serve as vantage points. There are lots of tightly packed settlements with very high populations (meaning you can sell lot of roasted meat) that sell copious amounts of: archery equipment, preserved foodstuff and furs. Hunt an animal, skin and butcher it, cure the skin and cook the meat and sell it. Only downside is that there are no cabins or saunas to smoke in, but you can build a larder with trade. I recommend summer start due to long view ranges. Trade some of your starting equipment for your first bow and arrows if you did not start with one. Shortbow is cheap and functional.

What I do when I spot an animal on the world map is that I first take note exactly how many moves and to which direction I need to do in order to arrive at that exact spot. You can use the look command to calculate the exact amount. I then walk there. If this does not trigger an encounter with an animal, I mark that spot (where I sighted the animal) on my map. After this I walk through all the eight adjacent tiles on the world map. If this does still not trigger the encounter, I walk back to the tile where I initially spotted the animal in, zoom in, and then start walking in ever larger circles until I find the tracks.

If you are desperate for animal in terms of in-game time then Palu's suggestion can work. Go to tile, zoom in and look back and forth. If you see nothing, zoom out and move to next tile. Provided visibility allows it you can see majority of a tile that way.

Some tips on actual art of hunting:

1) Animals as a rule prefer to move diagonally. They might for example head towards general direction of west, but zig-zag diagonally when they do so. If you are not sure where animal went it probably moved somewhere diagonally. I'd say that learning to predict animal AI is the biggest difference between experienced and inexperienced hunter in URW, as it allows you to chase the animal more efficiently.
2) Animals often also tend to rebound backwards from where they came from, particularly herd animals. Meaning they go to some direction, then stop running and circle around and start returning towards the general direction where they came from. If you can reacquire an animal and scare it back to running when it's rebounding back you are hunting efficiently.
3) There's a zoom function. Perhaps obvious, but it might be missed at first. You normally want to be at the furthest or second furthest zoom when hunting.
4) Pick your time and place for hunting. It's visually annoying to hunt in rain. You don't want to hunt in spruce mires and conifer forests if you can help it.
5) Short range shot through many trees is not as good as long range shot with clear arc of fire. While you can chase animals down uninjured, it's much easier if it has a leg wound. Don't neglect broadhead arrows if you can find them, they cause copious bloodloss which can kill even Elks in one hit and makes the animal easier to follow even if it doesn't (it does damage the hide though).
6) You'll be surprised how much you can run with no or extremely little (0%-1%) encumbrance.

Also, when hunting wolf never process the carcass at the site of the kill as this often results some wolf biting your neck from behind, which is often insta kill without mail coif.

Unlike some other commenters, I run often, but I do so periodically in spurts to not tire out. As far as I see there is no real reason to not do this, excepting maybe if are heavily loaded and/or have terrible endurance. The extra speed from running more than makes up the slightly slower speed you have to deal with afterwards.

General Discussion / Re: Hunting gripe
« on: December 12, 2021, 03:12:39 PM »
As I recall the only major things that have changed in hunting in the last decade of development is that animal spawning was made slightly harsher in that traps don't conjure them anymore (which could be exploited for active hunting), but since I don't trap beyond small critters that hasn't really affected my gameplay. I don't have great trouble at locating animals. Another thing that has changed is that you can't climb into trees on the world map anymore to check for game. I'd actually like to see the latter one reverted since IMO it's absence make one bit too reliant on hills and such for scouting.

If you are Owl, Kuikka, Kaumo or such you don't necessarily even need dogs for hunting. I once gathered enough reindeer furs for 10 fur kota with newly created Kuikka character within first in-game week.

Suggestions / Re: Dog colours
« on: December 12, 2021, 03:02:43 PM »
On closely related topic: I'd like to have a command to change the color of my dogs, so I don't have to search pointlessly for different color variants.

Gameplay questions / Re: Question about amour coverage
« on: December 12, 2021, 02:52:57 PM »
As far as I know, a point of armor that's off the graphical scale of the armor coverage screen is just as effective as point of armor within it. The game's damage system seems to be weapon damage value (generally 4-7) + 1-2 d6 (depending on relative success of rolls) with extra + 1d6 when hitting counterattacking target. The maximum of the armor screen [8] is really quite minimal, I tend to go for 10-14 points or so (though some locations such as skull are easy to make immune to damage).

And similarly, you'll want more clothing than just what the graphical scale shows for winter.

PC height is given incorrectly when using metric units. After conversion it's 15-20cm taller than what is given in imperial units. Example from test case: imperial height 79 inches (200,66cm) vs. stated metric height 219cm. Using 3.71 Steam version, tested on both Win 7 and Win 10 systems. Worth noting the conversion was working fine in 3.63 and earlier and when importing a character from that version to 3.71 the imperial units were the ones that remained correct.

Suggestions / Re: vitamins
« on: August 01, 2021, 11:34:25 AM »
I'd like to see scurvy represented some day at least as it's historically significant ailment that beyond sailors also plagued settlers. In practice though, I already gather ton of nettle and sorrel every autumn for use with green soup and as stew herb and buy some turnips from villagers so I can pretend my character is having something like a balanced diet.

General Discussion / Re: Real life names for mushrooms?
« on: August 01, 2021, 11:12:47 AM »
The wiki lists the names for the herbs and the berries and crops are self explanatory so I just need to figure out what the mushrooms are.

Just note that the Wiki while seemingly generally correct on those accounts does make at least one mistake. Clayweed is almost certainly Chenopodium album aka Jauhosavikka or Saviruoho (=Clayweed), not Clotsfoot.

As far as mushrooms go, I had assigned yellowcoat as keltavahvero or chanterelle and on basis of that I thought browncoat would be suppilovahvero, but apparently not. It does make sense if the mushrooms are more loosely based on Finnish mushrooms, yellow finger for one has so early harvest time it can't be any regular Finnish mushroom.

IIRC there is a phrasing somewhere that sleeping on a bunk makes you more likely to wake up vigorous

meaning higher chance of getting the best sleep

though you could just spend more time to sleep elsewhere

I don't think I have ever woken non-vigorous unless interrupted in some manner.

I think the most important things for dealing with accidental encounters with wolves are:

1) Always check your six (with the 180 degree turn).
2) When wolf makes sneak attack on you they attack your neck. Always wear all the neck armor you have in any situation you think you might run into wolf in.
3) Don't use pets aside dogs, the rest aggro wolves unerringly. Three to four big or regular dogs make for reasonable team of haulers.

When actually going to hunt wolves:

1) Armor up. And definitely at least mail cowl, cloth cowl (preferably two) and fur hood. Aside that, try to get at least circa 10 tear resistance in every other body part, preferably more.
2) Leave unessential items (water, food, tool axes etc.) elsewhere since you'll be more encumbered than during your typical hunt and wolves are more flighty than bears so you'll end up chasing them more.
3) Patience, my strategy at least is to bring their mobility down with damage and then chase them. Unlike with elks and reindeer I won't be ever bringing one down unless I got it cripple or limp from damage first before chasing it breathless.
4) Always check your six. Even when your are chasing a fleeing wolf down and you think you might be well away from rest of the pack, check your rear from time to time.
5) Consider leaving your dogs elsewhere (tied to a tree on nearby marked tile for example) when going to hunt. They are all but useless at protecting your ass and when they get aggroed they'll just run themselves breathless in the leash. A breathless dog is just giving a fresh wolf opportunity for easy kill.
6) You normally should avoid conifer forests and spruce mires when hunting, but with wolves you'll want to simply stay away as the low visibility can lead to nasty surprises.
7) Don't process the carcass on site of the kill. Either pick it up and carry it elsewhere or go fetch your dogs (a big dog is useful here) and pack it on them. Not a bad idea to ignore the big wolves since they are more of a hassle to carry. Or go kill them last once you have taken down rest of the pack.

Wolf hunting is bit different than regular hunting so it's nice change of pace and I don't think it's any more dangerous than bear hunting if you are careful. I never specifically trap wolves, so for me it's either active hunting or one walking into my lynx/wolverine traps. Too bad the otherwise decently valuable hides have habit of getting bit worn in the process, especially since I don't feel like pulling punches (or axe blows) with them.

EDIT: I lost a few dogs clearing the villages when they got injured and ran away.  I have also lost dogs hunting, but mostly they seem to find their way home eventually.

I once nearly lost a dog simply because it decided to go to sleep in middle of a chase. Luckily once I noticed this I was able to backtrack the tracks of the animal I was chasing (since my other dogs and PC didn't leave any) and find the sleeping dog. Had to abort the hunt though.

General Discussion / Re: Meteor strike?
« on: June 05, 2021, 02:38:57 PM »
The light effects (and rain, it's horrid to look for tracks in rain) are surprisingly atmospheric and functional in URW

Gameplay questions / Re: The dog did not protect my sheep
« on: June 05, 2021, 02:23:34 PM »
Even if the Vikings may have been visiting the Americas by the end of the UrW timeline, they probably didn't bring any dogs back. Also, you don't have to go to the new world to find usage of dogs specifically bred for herding/livestock guarding, but the UrW dog seems to be a hunting dog breed, not a herding one.

All the livestock guard dogs used in US are of European or West Asian origin, though from the Mediterranean world (Portugal, Spain, France, Italy, the Balkans and Turkey) rather than the north. It does seem to be a very specific working dog type that is difficult to maintain a breed for. Apparently some breeds that were at some point specialized for it simply don't work at it anymore. Indeed it seems like the study mentioned in that article has since concluded and the breeds it found to be best were all not very established recent imports to US. And the breeds that are used to corral the herds and the breeds that are used to kick wolves around are distinct ones and don't work at each others' jobs.

How applicable it is to iron age Sami I don't know. All the dog breeds today associated with Sami seem to be rather modestly sized animals, more like 30 kg than the 50 kg + (wolf sized) that the Mediterranean guard dog breeds are. And Sami don't ultimately have very long history as herdsmen, so it might be reasonable to assume they never developed as sophisticated breeds as the Mediterraneans who had millennia to go at this stuff. But they are the only peoples in URW that I'd expect to have breeds of that sort.

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