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Improve the menu system With the menu system the way it is now, it's not possible to have more than 25 items on a menu. This severely limits the amount of mods you can use at once, which is annoying to say the least. It shouldn't be too hard to add multiple "pages" to menus, or enable people to scroll down. Hopefully this can be worked into the next update.
May 31, 2019, 07:45:03 PM
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Re: Wishlist The vast majority of crossbows from the middle ages have the bolt just laying on the stock when loaded.
Tilting the crossbow sideways while it's loaded could result in the bolt falling off.
Storing such a loaded crossbow on your back is unreasonable, the bolt would fall off.
Even carrying it with one hand in a relaxed manner with it pointed down would do the same.

Iron Age crossbows? Probably less sophisticated than the medieval ones you can find pictures of.

Crossbows should always require two hands when they are loaded.

October 14, 2019, 12:43:47 AM
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Re: wiki and email I checked out these options and MediaWiki e-mail preferences making sure they are true and active. But with a test account it fails for me too.
We'll try to take a closer look soon enough. It may require installing extensions or to upgrade MediaWiki version.
 

February 20, 2020, 06:34:12 PM
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Re: Micromanaging Rope lengths problem yea, that of course would make things more convenient.
i just offered a workaround for the current system. what i do, is precutting a big number of tying stuff, so i end up with some straight, and some uneven numbers of cord. So i dont have to cut all of them down to 1ft. It is a method of moderate effort, yet it has the downside having many different lenthgs of tying stuff, and if theres different qualities, it can get somewhat messy...

but perhaps there is another option, although it would turn over the whole system again:

treat it just like repairing or crafting clothes. e.g. when you repair a coat which is missing 1,2 lmbs and you choose the cloth for repair, the game system automatically cuts off 1,2 lmbs of that, and does not waste the rest.
It is actually just a realistic thing that if you got a 15 ft cord and you craft a bow, for which you need a cutting tool anyway, the character cuts of that needed 5 ft for the bow, as part of the crafting process – and saves the spare 10 ft. i mean, where should that spare cord go anyway...?

March 11, 2020, 12:28:00 PM
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Re: [WIP] RPG-ish(?) Character Portraits The original portraits in the game are really cool; I like to see people in trditional folk costume.
But, for me, they are out of place, because of the pixelart-style of the game, so I really like the idea of these RPG-ish portraits. Unforunately, they still looks like (as Night mentioned, too) a real photo but super-enhanced.
As for the backgroud, I like the idea of having somekind of a Nordic / finish patterns or symbols.

I donwloaded your photo and loaded it into GIMP and played with it a little. I managed to make it look more like a photoreaistic painting, istead of a enhanced photo.
If you like the result, just tell me, I can give you the steps what and how I done, or even I can do it if you like it.
(I have to mention that I hade to remove the entire background first, so the changes in the colors aren't affected by the colors of the background, this took the most time. After that I just pasted it back ontop of the original.)

Edit:
I forgot to mention that I ain't really good at drawing, especially with mouse, a.k.a I miserably fail if I try to draw anything with a mouse. I have only a bit of experience with some retouching photos, thanks to that, that our family have a pritty huge vintage photo collection, we can date back our and our anchstors photo collection, as far as photografy itself goes.
Anyway, your work is awsome MikMogus, I hope you come out with a mod or something, so I can play the game with (IMO) "cooler" graphics: I'm a big fan of oldschool RPG games, and I totally miss those cool hand-drawn portraits from modern RPGs.
I just played with the colors and scripts and filters (collected from the interweb) to get the result.
Without your hard work I never be able to make this graphic. Thanks!

PS to all:
Thanks for this cool game, I following it for severaly years now. From time to time I always come back to play with it.
Greetings from Hungary.

March 23, 2020, 03:42:07 PM
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Re: [WIP] RPG-ish(?) Character Portraits Here's another:

March 28, 2020, 01:01:28 AM
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Wilderness map: visible fires during night So, in daylight we sometimes see animals and humans in the distance, then, why not more so seeing the glow of fires in the evening/night?

Just came to think about this as I left the zoomed in view, where I had a fire lit, and came out to a dark wilderness map.

April 08, 2020, 10:03:37 PM
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Shelter(s), rain&snow cover, mobile winter hunting. We have our 3 slender trunk (presumably 2 half cut, snapped &bent, without needing any tying equipment. Although dismantling returns 3 intact slender trunks, not 1 and 2 half cut&split/cracked) shelter with spruce twig roof.

One of the mods (BAC) has punt shelter, but it has to replace the current shelter, both can't be active at same time.

I've been scouring sources available on US west coast... slim, about 'loue' a: "single pole, cord and cover shelter's" history.
It's *the Finnish hunting trip shelter from rain & heat reflector*, but I can't really find anything beyond early 1920s.

I can't come to accept that people 1,000, 2,000, 3,000... even 6,000 years ago would've not used some hides (tanned hide, fur coat, fur cloak in URW terms) to set up overnight shelter during inclement weather. To be taken down in the morning and heading back on the unknown wilderness.

So the suggestions:

1) 'Loue' shelter (as we don't have sq. ft. on the hides, I'd like to see 10lbs-20lbs fur*, 8 ft tying equipment and proximity of 'slender trunk' providing tree: standing, not felled or 1 slender trunk)
2) fur ... bivouac? (10+lbs fur, 2x 6ft tying equipment and 2 stakes)
3) More than 1, moddable shelter/world item type... ( this could be a PAIN to code... ick)
4) current shelter to require 2x2ft ( so even a single birch withe, cut in 2 would suffice, "teach newbies about cordage" etc) tying material OR disassembling shelter to return only 1 slender trunk and 2 new item "cracked slender trunk" with the 20 twigs.


*if/when we get textile crafts in vanilla, sewing a flax and/or hemp cloth for the cover cloth should be included. considerably lighter weight than fur.
FYI Cotton&vinyl cloth loue cover weights around 6lbs with cordage. Doesn't need oil treating for water proofing, angling steep suffices and keeps weight down.

May 05, 2020, 04:39:29 AM
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Re: Axe haft and spear shaft repair, and alterations On this subject, I OWN the very ax that Abraham Lincoln used to split logs! The head has been replaced and the handle is new, but, it occupies the same space...
May 14, 2020, 07:34:25 PM
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How to Trap for Pleasure and Profit; A Rough Guide This is a rough guide to trapping as well as is ongoing. Game mechanics are known to changes often and so does player knowledge base. As such I will be adding and editing as I go to improve the guide and keep it up to date. This guide doesn’t rely on trading, nets or fishing rods or even active hunting or murdering NPCs. This is how to survive on trapping alone. I would suggest as starting off as a trapper in Summer as the shovel is so much better than the wooden shovel.

The biggest thing about trapping is where you call your territory. The best spots are near lakes and rivers, they act as natural barriers and drive prey into the traps. The best location is tucked against a series of lakes, connected with land bridges.

There are 3 traps that is best for the early game. The most useful is the Light Lever Trap. It only costs a slender trunk, 2 branches and a stone. You will need a knife as well. It catches birds, hares, pine martens, polecats, foxes, weasels and probably more that I am forgetting.

The next is the Paw Board Trap which only costs a board. You will need an axe and knife. It catches Foxes; regular and arctic. It is cheap to make, unwanted ones can be traded or burnt. Foxes bring in 4-8lbs of meat and a valuable fur.

Finally, the Pit Trap. Most labour intensive and well as costs 3 slender trunks, 10 branches, 10 spruce twigs and you will need to dig a pit first with a shovel. This catches all the big game: bears, elk, reindeer, seals, wolves and boars.

Once you have found a location you are happy with, near a series of almost connected lakes or near a river, build yourself a shelter and a raft with paddle. Stack the raft with slender trunks, branches and twigs and stones. Paddle up and down your shelter square, building lever traps along the shoreline. I would suggest leaving 3-5 spaces between each trap. A good lake trap line will bring in many mallards and ducks. Great for early game food. Do this to all the shore fronts nearby. Check them every day or twice. You can get kills stolen from traps by foxes and goshawks. Use your raft to easily paddle to check them, plus you will scare lake and river birds into your traps.

Once you have a day’s food or two, start building your paw board traps. They will work without bait but not as well. The best location, I have found is open mires and ground tiles to snag foxes. It is easy to check all your traps without moving. I tend to place 7-10 in a rough circle and if I don’t have enough to bait them, I put one bait in the middle, at least as a draw to the trapping area. These should be checked once every 3-5 days.

Now the big earners, the pit traps. If you are near interconnecting lakes with land bridges, you have hit the gold mine. In the little ground between the two lakes, dig a few pit holes and make the traps. Place the fences so anything coming this way would follow the coast and fall into one of your pits. If you don’t have interconnecting lakes, just build one from the riverbank or lake bank out. I tend to do pit traps every 3 tiles. The only herd animals are reindeer, pigs and wolves and even if you catch all the herd then the meat or fur would spoil before you could process all 5-10 animals. I rather lessen the work and grab only 3 animals. I dig about 7 pit traps out, fence it and then leave it, checking as often I do for fox traps.

You can bait with berries, vegetables and meat. Early game when I do not have a sauna, if I get an early big game like elk and cannot eat it all, I only cook what I can eat, and the spoiled raw meat goes into fox traps.  Elk love turnips and will happily go into pit traps for one. Berries will drive birds into your lever traps. A smart trapper will set up their lever traps around or on a berry bush to draw game to it. Foxes like meat, they act like dogs and will not take spoiled cooked meat.

Seal trapping is more of a novelty than anything  is actually a great way to get early loot. You can trap seals in trap pits and big dead fall traps. The dead fall traps are worth setting up on skerries if you see seals in the area. Trap pits work too but needs to be dug in ground right on the shore.

To live as a Seal Trapper, all you need is a raft with some rope, logs and slender trunks and you can check the east coast tile by tile and live off of seals. I found I can trade 5-6 regular grey seal furs for a bag of salt, which you can then salt 210lb of meat with. In fall you can just dry the meat or if you have a smokehouse built you can smoke the meat. You get 20-175lb of meat depending on the size of the seal and type. Ringed seals are smaller than grey. It very much an active pastime but well worth it actually.

There is also living bait traps. There are people who use bought animals such as sheep as living bait, tying them to a tree and making a double ring of traps around the animal in order to tempt lynxes, wolves and bears into traps. I figure why risk your sheep when a smoked elk cut would do the same. Once a trap has triggered and the animal is dead, animals and NPCs can walk over them so with a wolf pack, the third wolf would get the sheep.

There are of course other traps in the game, the simplest is the snare. It costs 3ft of cord. I rarely use these as require cordage, which early game I rarely have and later game, when I have cordage to spare, I am onto trap pits and have lever traps already set up.

Small and big deadfall traps cost more than light lever traps and require tying equipment. The small deadfall traps may catch badgers and gluttons but they are rare. I usually set these around cellars and dog feeding zones to stop scavengers such as them and foxes. Big dead fall traps catch what small dead falls do and lynxes and wolves which are rare once again. I would use them if I see tracks of those around or see them on the map but I wouldn’t make them otherwise as if they are triggered, they often kill the animal outright meaning you only have a few days to recover the bodies versus  up to a week in Pitfalls. You can use withes for these which lower the "cost" of building.

Heavy Dead Fall Bear Traps catch the same animals as Pitfalls but doesn’t need a hole. They do work with fences as well.  They do require tying equipment which makes them for mid game or working on over winter when the ground is too frozen to dig.

There is some ritual based things you can do regarding traps. When you bait a Bear Dead Fall Trap, do so naked to increase your chances to get a bear in it. Fox traps should be baited in the evening to increase chances. Another one is to leave fox traps in a doorway so women walk over them. (Anyone tested if female player characters count?) For snaring hares, wear mittens preferably woolen ones to increase chances.

I stress that this is a rough guide; you might find that you do better with snares or maybe deadfalls but I  just wanted to provide a little guidance to trapping and how to live off it.

Good luck and happy trapping.



June 20, 2020, 06:17:27 PM
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anything